Photograph by Shari Kaplan

Daphne shrubs are not commonly grown, due to their care requirements. They reward their growers with interesting foliage and highly fragrant pink or white flowers.

It's time for gardeners to take stand against snails

By TONY TOMEO

The cultivars of grapes utilized by the wine industry in California have been developed for local climate, soil and water primarily from wine grapes used for centuries in the Mediterranean. What few people realize and the French would never admit is that as French vineyards were being decimated by disease, the disease-resistant cultivars that were developed and are currently employed originated from those developed for California. Remember that the next time you enjoy a glass of sparkling wine that cannot be labeled as champagne.

Another culinary contribution from France that was not so beneficial to horticulture, and in fact is quite detrimental, is "escargot." Unfortunately, the escargot that is such an excellent appetizer in the restaurants that still serve it is known to garden enthusiasts as the brown snail (or just "snail"). It escaped captivity, naturalized many years ago and is now one of the most damaging garden pests.

Now that the days are slowly becoming longer and the weather is slowly becoming warmer, snails are becoming more active. Snail damage is obvious to most garden enthusiasts as partial or complete defoliation or even complete disappearance of small plants. Slime trails confirm snail activity. If snails are expected to be a problem, control procedures should begin as soon as is practical so the population does not become unmanageable.

The preferred method of minimizing snail populations is hand picking. To be effective, this procedure must be performed thoroughly and regularly. Collection should be done nightly, preferably between 10 and 11 p.m. when snails emerge to feed, until snails are scarce. A flashlight is helpful. Then inspection and collection should be performed each week or as necessary. Snails should be either crushed or drowned in soapy water. A few strategically located dead snails (not many) will attract other snails to facilitate extermination. The rest may be buried in the garden to enrich the soil and to prevent flies from finding them.

Barriers may be used to exclude snails from critical areas of the garden. Copper tape is likely the most effective snail barrier. It can be wrapped around pots or tree trunks or tacked to the top of the wooden sides of garden beds. I have found bare copper wire is effective, but it cannot be tied around trees because it does not allow for expansion of the trunk. Seedlings may be covered with screening or horticultural fabric if the edges are pressed into the soil so that snails cannot force their way under.

Because snails hide during the day, strategically placed upside down pots, small boards or plants that are preferred hiding places may be used as "traps" from which the snails are easily picked. Conversely, clutter around the garden that is not being used to trap provides an ideal environment for snails and should be removed.

Irrigation should be performed early in the day so that the area can dry somewhat and be less hospitable to snails as well as various other pathogens. Drip irrigation, where practical, concentrates moisture where it is most needed without moistening the surrounding soil and facilitating snail activity. Too much irrigation will not only be detrimental to the garden by other means, but may also promote snail infestation.

Although I would like to take credit for all this information, I have obtained it from one of the brochures available from the West Valley Clean Water Program. This and other brochures are available by calling 408.354.5385.

Flower of the Week: Daphne

Scooby Doo seemed to enjoy Daphne, Daphne odora, but some garden enthusiasts may have difficulty locating it. It would be more popular if it was more conducive to nursery production. However, because it rots easily in pots, no one wants to grow it for the retail market.

In the garden, very well-drained soil is essential. Irrigation should be generous but infrequent enough to allow for soil aeration as moisture drains out, particularly during warm weather. Drier conditions promote bloom the following year. Partial shade is preferred.

Mature specimens may be 3 feet tall and wide or wider. The glossy narrow foliage is about 3 inches long. Clustered pale pink flowers with darker pink edges appear about now, in February or March. The fragrance is remarkable. The cultivar "marginata" is more popular than daphne and exhibits a yellow edge to the foliage.

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Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.

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