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Dan, Frank, Jacqueline and John Holder all have a hand in the family's restaurant business, which just opened a new location on De Anza Boulevard.
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Of, by and for the family
By Kelle Schillaci
In the culinary world, particularly here in the swanky-posh Bay Area, restaurants are often judged by the riskiness of their cuisine, the trendiness of their interior and the snootiness of their wine list. But simple, old-fashioned food--the kind of stuff mom used to make, served up with mom-style love and warmth--still can please.
Even diners with the most designer taste buds won't mind foregoing their pancetta, couscous and/or "fusion" menu items in favor of the wholesome, hearty and family-style options now being served up at the new Holder's Country Inn at 998 De Anza Boulevard.
A bona fide tradition here in the South Bay, the Holder's restaurant phenomenon began back in 1957, when Jack and Anne Holder opened one of the first pancake houses in the valley. Uncle John's was quite a jumpin' little breakfast joint in its day. Not only that, but it spawned its own little chain, and now, more than four decades later, all of Jack Holder's seven offspring (Jacquelyn, Frank, John, Richard, Daniel, Michael and Robert) are continuing in their dad's restaurant business tradition.
According to Dan Holder, some of the original customers of the original Uncle John's still show up and order their original menu choices. That's what you call old-school "regulars."
A true family establishment, both in terms of ownership and clientele, the new Cupertino branch of the Holder's Country Inn dynasty is off to a blazing start at its new De Anza location, already filling booths with the lunch rush and the weekend brunch crowds. The newly remodeled interior of the former Denny's outpost conjures immediate images of comfort-style dining, which is definitely reiterated by a tried-and-true traditional homestyle menu.
Options range from the full breakfast options (pancakes, waffles, omelette soufflés)--which are available all day, along with the bottomless mug of coffee--to various sandwich platters, to a full selection of hearty entree options with a choice of side order accomplishments.
Meat-eaters will rejoice in the politically non-correctness of the thick steaks, liver and onions and homemade chili. Chef Victor Suarez, formerly of the Decathlon Club, navigates his way through just about every cuisine genre, from lasagna to Malaysian Cashew Chicken to good old-fashioned burgers.
And of course, true to the family ethic, there're plenty of kid-friendly platters--featuring crispy fries-on-the-side.
The only difficult part about a visit to Holder's is saving room for the full selection of freshly baked pies on display at the front entrance.
It's difficult to approach this local, family-style chain without tossing around the words "old-fashioned," "traditional," and "homestyle." But that's what it's all about. It's the kind of place where much of the waitstaff has been aboard for twenty years, and they're quick to greet the regulars by name.
"What separates us from other places is that we're truly a family restaurant, not the least bit corporate," Dan Holder said. "You may have your new trendy and ethnic places, but we're the kind of restaurant you can go to every day."
And that's just what founder "Uncle" Jack Holder did, up to the very end. Mr. Holder's portrait, taken back in 1957 at the site of his original restaurant, now hangs in the newest addition to his legacy, in his signature bowtie and grin, watching over patrons and family alike as they dine together--family style.
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Cupertino, California Since 1947
