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Certain gardening chores are ready-made for late winter days
By Tony Tomeo
Most of the gardening chores that must be performed in winter should be nearing completion by now. A late bloom cycle of some species allows more time for certain procedures, but the recent warm weather necessitates prompt attention to others.
Bare-root stock that has been available through winter will be canned in the retail nurseries if it is not sold prior to bloom and foliation. After that, it will not be available bare-root until next winter. If it is required before that, it will only be available in cans. Canned material is more expensive and experiences more difficulty becoming established in the garden than bare-root material.
Newly canned material beginning to produce new roots is much more sensitive than material that has been in the can long enough to produce more substantial root systems. Consequently, if bare-root material is not available, the next best option is established canned material that will be available later in the season.
Species that are most commonly available bare-root include many of the fruit trees and their fruitless or "flowering" colleagues, as well as many deciduous shade trees, deciduous magnolias, wisteria, roses, cane berries, grapes, strawberries, rhubarb and artichokes.
Winter pruning of deciduous fruit trees, roses, berries and grapes that are already established in the garden should also be performed prior to bloom or foliation. However, some of the "flowering" trees, such as flowering cherry, plum, pear and crabapple, may be pruned after bloom but prior to foliation to maximize the profusion of bloom. Some garden enthusiasts prefer to prune these partially during bloom so that the flowering branches may be brought into the home. Wisteria should be pruned in winter, but some garden enthusiasts prefer to prune it after bloom. The main concern associated with late pruning is damage to newly developing vines that may occur as those pruned out are removed.
Perennials and bulbs that begin activity in spring should also be processed accordingly. Of course the spring blooming bulbs have been installed some time ago and many have already bloomed. However, the summer blooming bulbs and rhizomes may be installed throughout winter to extend the bloom cycle through the early summer. For example, if gladioli are installed in small groups at two-week intervals, each group will finish bloom at about the time the next is beginning bloom. Summer blooming bulbs and "bulb-like plants" include gladioli, canna, calla, dahlia, anemone, ranunculi, lily (various) and tuberous begonia. Callas bloom so variably that they may all be installed at the same time.
Although division of spring blooming perennials should have been performed in autumn, those that bloom in late summer or winter may be divided now. Winter blooming bergenia, for example, may be divided after bloom so that growth of new roots may begin as soon as possible in spring. Even those that bloom in mid-summer, such as agapanthi, Shasta daisy and daylily may be divided now if delayed bloom is not a concern. Rhubarb, artichokes and strawberries, mentioned earlier, should also be divided if crowded. Strawberries may require thinning if too many pups have rooted in the same area.
Flower of the Week: Saucer magnolia
There are several species of deciduous magnolias known as saucer magnolias or (incorrectly) tulip trees. The most common has traditionally been magnolia soulangiana, but other species are becoming increasingly popular.
The first cultivars to bloom have already become quite spectacular. Others will bloom later. Flowers may be quite large and range in color from white, pink, light red, light purple and rarely even pale yellow. Foliage is light green and softly textured. Individual leaves of some cultivars are considerably larger than those of others.
Saucer magnolias as well as other magnolias prefer good sun exposure, regular irrigation and rich soil that is well drained. Organic material should be incorporated into the soil when trees are installed because surface roots are sensitive once established to excavation necessary for later soil amendment. The typical shallow root structure may also damage concrete if it is too near.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.
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