The she-oak, sometimes called beefwood, is not an oak at all. This evergreen tree appears to have needles, but in actuality, these structures are very thin stems.

Photograph by Shari Kaplan

Whether seeds or six-packs, it's time to plant vegetables

By Tony Tomeo

It is gratifying to see that bare-root trees planted in winter are now foliating. Established fruit trees have already bloomed, but new trees may have only bloomed lightly or not at all. This is normal for the first year, while root growth is the priority. After a year of healthy growth, the new trees will bloom as profusely as mature trees.

In the garden, it is time to plant vegetables. I prefer to acquire tomatoes and peppers as small plants in cell packs or "six-packs." A six-pack costs about as much as an envelope of seed, but starts growing right away and provides only the necessary quantity of plants. There are too many seeds in an envelope for the average garden, and the seeds need to be monitored as they grow into small plants. Six-packs of eggplant and a few squash (like zucchini) are also practical.

Most other vegetables should be planted as seed directly in the soil for just the opposite reasons. For example, individual beets, carrots and corn stalks only produce a minimal amount of vegetable or fruit product. Consequently, many of the same plants are needed in a garden. They should be planted as seed, because it is not practical to purchase so many small plants. They also perform better when they can germinate and grow in the same location without disruption. Small plants of these types of vegetables require more work to plant and become established more slowly than seed.

Beans, peas and cucumbers are also more easily planted as seed, even if only a few plants are required. Unlike tomatoes and peppers, these vegetables are easily damaged if planted as small plants grown in six-packs. Seeds grow more rapidly than plants recover from being transplanted. Some squash should also be planted as seed, but may be preferred as single small plants.

Vegetables that provide through the summer, such as tomatoes, peppers, beans and squash, should be planted as early as possible. Those that are consumed as they produce and need to be replaced, such as beets, carrots and corn, should be planted in smaller groups every two weeks or so. If enough of each is planted to provide for the time interval between planting, each group will be exhausted as the next group is starting production. I can discuss spring and summer vegetables in more detail next week, but should mention two events of horticultural interest.

The annual Dahlia Root Sale will be conducted April 6 by the John E. Stowell Dahlia Society at the De Anza Flea Market, located at De Anza College, 21250 Stevens Creek Blvd. in Cupertino. (The event is annual, but the tubers are perennial.) Garden enthusiasts interested in locating dahlias with specific characteristics, in regard to color, size and style may identify and acquire suitable cultivars.

Likewise, those requiring specific cultivars are more likely to find them at this sale, which includes some of the more rare cultivars as well as some of the more common. The sale operates from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., and admission is free. Parking is also free, but may be scarce later in the day.

The Clara B. Rees Iris Society will be conducting its 44th annual spring show the following weekend: April 13, 1-7 p.m., and April 14, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. This year's event, titled "Iris Inspirations," will be at Westgate Mall, 1600 Saratoga Ave. in San Jose. Admission is free.

Blooming iris and floral arrangements that include irises will be on exhibit. Rhizomes (iris plants) of some of the cultivars that produced the flowers in the exhibit will be available from the Iris Society's Plant Sale. Horticultural enthusiasts who grew many of the rhizomes and flowers will be present to discuss iris culture and production. For additional information, contact Karl Dost at 408.264.4278.

Tree of the Week: She-Oak

The she-oak, Casuarina cunninghamiana, is also known as the horsetail tree, which is actually C. equisetifolia. The she-oak is the largest of the genus and can grow rapidly to 50 feet and even larger at a slower rate. The finely textured, hazy green "needles" are actually very thin stems. True "leaves" are imperceptible. The she-oak tolerates heat, severe exposure and drought as well as inadequate drainage. A smaller species, C. stricta, is consequently a good street tree.

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Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.

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