Photograph by George Sakkestad
Cafe Trio owners Jack and Rosemary Edwards are partners in marriage and business.
Cafe Trio's duo reflects seasons in their menus
By Suzanne Cristallo
Jack and Rosemary Edwards are working partners in Cafe Trio in Los Gatos Village Square on Los Gatos Boulevard. The avant-garde California bistro-style restaurant, done in classy black-and-white tiles, is the kind of place where regulars keep standing reservations twice a week. The Edwardses share all of this, their marriage, parenthood and partnership. They also share a few laughs.
His easy-going nature is what made Jack stand out from all the chefs Rosemary had known in the 15 years she worked in restaurants.
"I think it's usually a requirement that chefs act like gods in the kitchen," she says, smiling. "There's no talking to them. Waitresses fear making special requests of them for their customers. But Jack was approachable--not egotistical at all."
The compatibility the two enjoy led to their 1993 marriage and, six months later, to their partnership in Cafe Trio, previously known as Il Pastaio, which they bought from Rosemary's uncle, John Ardizzone, who also owns La Pastaia at the De Anza Hotel in San Jose. A third partner, Lindsey Ryan, started with the Edwards, only to branch out on her own in 1997 with her Highway 17 restaurant, Lindsey's at the Summit. The remaining duo reverted to a trio with the birth of daughter Madeline two years ago.
Jack's menu changes with the seasons. With late spring approaching, the abundance of fresh local produce will influence the menu. Presently, one of his mixed green salads, appropriately listed under "crunchers" on the menu, consists of macadamia nuts glazed in honey and tossed with tomatoes, fennel and shaved asiago in a fresh tarragon vinaigrette--the nuts providing a sweet surprise among the tart flavors.
The cafe's signature dishes remain constant: penne pasta with grilled chicken and oven-roasted tomatoes; a platter of seared salmon in macadamia nut crust with sautéed bok choy and spicy lemongrass-coconut broth. Rack of lamb, swordfish, pork loin and steak round out the entrees at around $20 with soup or salad.
For lunch, among the "munchers," or sandwiches, are open-faced tri-tip with caramelized onions, grilled portobello mushroom or a smoked club with avocado and herb aioli, all around $9 with salad.
For the regulars who notice, there are wax-sealed bottles of Cafe Trio vinaigrette along the back wall for purchase. Jack spends one day a week bottling his tarragon, lemon garlic, Caesar and sesame ginger for the customers whose constant requests made the Edwardses decide to package the dressings, but not without strict FDA approval.
"It took several months," Rosemary notes. "We had to submit samples to UC-Davis for testing. They had to be sure our formula had enough acid to counteract the fresh ingredients, since there are no additives. We don't promote it. It's just a nice thing--a labor of love. If it goes too well, we won't be able to keep up with making it here."
Rosemary, 34, grew up in Los Gatos and graduated from Leigh High School and UC-San Diego, where she majored in microbiology. It was while working her way through school as a waitress that, "It hit me on the head [that] my real calling was in food," she recalls. Jack, 38, grew up in the southern San Joaquin Valley. He obtained his culinary arts degree at age 19 from Columbia College in the Gold Country, worked as a chef at Gervais--a San Jose French restaurant--and finally as executive chef for Il Pastaio, where he met Rosemary.
Cafe Trio, 15466 Los Gatos Blvd, Los Gatos. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 5-9 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 5-10 p.m. Closed Sun. 356-8129.
Los Gatos, California Since 1881
