Photograph by George Sakkestad

Taylor Sublett serves fresh-baked bread and a bottle of wine at I Gatti.

I Gatti pleases palates with Italian, Californian cuisine

By Suzanne Cristallo

It's a noisy little place, full of locals who like it for the stucco wall art that creates a Mediterranean village ambiance, as well as for the eclectic Italian food--meaning the best of both northern and southern Italy, with a little California thrown in. Its name, I Gatti, means "the cats," and some Los Gatans like it even more for the story behind its success.

Since 1994, I Gatti has offered fine dining in a casual atmosphere on E. Main Street, just down the block from where owner Neda Mansoorian graduated from Los Gatos High School in 1989. Four years later, she obtained her political science degree from UC-Berkeley while firming up plans for the opening of her restaurant. Next week will be another milestone: after five years of balancing the management of the bistro with the study of law, Mansoorian will receive a law degree from Santa Clara University. But her accomplishments have not come free of flak.

Because she was young and female, Mansoorian, now 27, was given lots of warnings by older men who predicted she would not be taken seriously in either the restaurant business or in law. "They always prefaced their remarks by saying, of course they did not feel this way, but ... " she laughs.

Her subsequent dealings with some contractors and kitchen staff brought insinuations that translated to "Who do you think you are, trying to open a restaurant?" But she persevered, using as inspiration her uncle, who runs a string of popular bistros in New York. She visited him to watch his operation, used the Internet for research, picked the brains of experienced Bay Area restaurateurs and hired a restaurant consultant for a month to advise her on menu planning, chef hiring and bookkeeping.

She believes, however, that a successful restaurant comes not by following the book alone, but by having the right instincts. "Loving the business and having a finger on the pulse of the public is so much of it," she explains, adding that growing up in Los Gatos and understanding the sophisticated and discerning people who have become her customers is very important.

Mansoorian credits her parents, Al and Mary Mansoorian, with creating an atmosphere during her growing years that encouraged her and sister Lisa Halliday, a dentist, to be whatever they wanted to be. Al has helped her since his retirement with the restaurant bookkeeping, while Mansoorian "troubleshoots" and serves as executive manager.

She commends Chef David Shabani, 34, for his running of an "amazing" kitchen. She says he is known among regulars for his signature dish, Linguini Nere--a black squid ink linguini with prawns and lobster in tomato-basil sauce. He also makes a variety of other pasta dishes.

Shabani served his culinary apprenticeship in Germany, eventually finding his way to Paoli's in San Jose before joining Mansoorian. His menu offers meat entrees--including filet mignon with a balsamic sherry reduction glaze; fresh fish each day; poultry; pizzas and appetizers. His special dessert is a handmade caramel basket filled with white chocolate gelato with fresh berries over a bed of orange caramel sauce.

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I Gatti, 25 E. Main St., Los Gatos. Open for lunch Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Tues.-Sun. 5-10 p.m. 399-5180.

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