Photograph by Paul Myers

Justin Perez, Susan Ardizzone and Lynne Holland own Buca Fine Catering, which provides food service for Montalvo.

Campbell caterers cook up gourmet food for Montalvo

'Cutting-edge' food

By Suzanne Cristallo

Concert-goers at Montalvo--formerly Villa Montalvo--in Saratoga are having their senses satisfied this summer. Whether it's the sound of a symphony orchestra, the sight of a contagiously jovial crowd on a sunny afternoon, the feel and smell of soft grass beneath a picnic blanket or the taste of garlic fries, it's a stimulating environment. And the taste doesn't stop at the fries.

Last April, the folks at Montalvo asked the folks at Buca Catering in Campbell to handle their food concessions, pre-concert dinners and special events. Buca's permanent staff of 65, plus an army of in-house-trained part-timers, offer the fries and many other goodies to as many as 3,000 concert-goers who eat picnic-style on the Montalvo lawn.

The caterers also attend to the pre-concert Sunset Buffets for up to 200 guests in the main gallery of the estate. Private "plated dinners" of three courses are served to VIP corporate groups of 150 diners in separate locations.

Sunset Buffet guests enjoy a view out both sides of the high-ceilinged room, which once was the living room of the estate built by the late California Senator James Phelan in the 1920s. A massive ornate stone fireplace is the focal point of the room with views to either the verandah overlooking a sweeping lawn or the Spanish Courtyard with its two bubbling fountains.

"We're thrilled to be a part of it," says Lynne Holland, who handles the catering and large event sales for Buca and shares its ownership with Susan Ardizzone (marketing) and Justin Perez (executive chef). The trio started their catering business and the Buca restaurant, an Italian bistro in Campbell, nearly three years ago.

Perez describes his food as health-conscious and cutting edge. "It's all about the wild factor," he says, referring to his use of game. For a recent private dinner in honor of movie actress Sophia Loren, he served ostrich medallions with an intensely flavored raspberry port demi-glace. Loren was at Montalvo to see her son, Carlo Ponti, conduct the Russian National Orchestra.

Perez, a graduate of the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, also has served elk medallions, grilled escolar--a white fish from the South Pacific--and osso bucco, the Italian dish of braised veal shanks. He has cooked since he was 13 and now has 18 years of experience behind him. Mostly, his creations are an inspiration of the moment, he says. "It's as the spirit moves me."

The majority of the remaining concert season at Montalvo is sold out, including the pre-concert dinners. Association members got first crack at the tickets, such as the Aug. 26 appearance of Bill Cosby and Ray Charles' gig on Aug. 31; the remaining blocks offered to the public are going fast.

Concert-goers attending events on the front lawn of the old estate can enjoy a variety of concession foods. Besides the Gordon Biersch garlic fries, there are sushi rolls for $8, Caesar salad for $6 and grilled chicken breast on garlic toast served with basil vinaigrette, topped with caramelized onions, provolone cheese, roasted garlic and sun-dried tomatoes for $7.50. There is also gumbo with dirty rice--the Cajun term for rice colored by ground giblets; an antipasto box with baguettes, fresh eggplant with provolone cheese and pasta salad; torta with green salad; cookies, brownies and an ice cream cart.

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Montalvo, 15400 Montalvo Road, Saratoga. For Buca Catering information call 408.871.3131.

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