Los Gatos Weekly-Times Take tip cuttings in autumn to get a head start on spring By Tony Tomeo Fall is the season for taking tip cuttings from fuchsias, pelargoniums (geraniums), ivy, marguerite daisies and other soft-stemmed woody ornamentals. Cuttings taken from these plants at this time of year are classified as semi-hardwood cuttings. They are taken after the active growing period of late summer while the stems are still succulent enough to snap when bent sharply. Stems that bend are too mature. Stems that are too succulent or still actively growing are suitable for softwood cuttings, which are processed in the same manner, but need to be done in the spring or summer. Cuttings are easier to manage with several in one container. Not all will survive, so planting them in individual pots may be wasted effort. Also, the rooting medium is different from potting soil. You can root cuttings in potting soil, but would have better success using rooting medium and transplanting to pots later. Flats are used to produce large quantities of cuttings, but for small-quantity home use, clay pots work very well. Plastic pots are also acceptable, but fine young roots prefer the porosity and insulating quality of clay. Peat moss and perlite in a half-and-half proportion is the medium recommended for most cuttings. Sand may be substituted for perlite or used alone if watered more frequently, to compensate for the greater water retention of peat moss. Whatever medium is used, it should fill the pot to about one inch from the top. The pot and medium need good drainage. Cuttings should be healthy tip growth. Avoid any stems that are damaged or stressed. Cut just below a node, where the leaf is attached to the stem, at least four inches down from the tip, preferably no more than six inches. While you are at it, cut the stem on the plant back to just above the next node to avoid leaving a stub. Strip the leaves from the lower half of the cutting, dip the cut end in rooting hormone and insert it into the medium to a depth half the length of the stem. Pelargoniums should be left out for a day or two to dry the cut end, which is otherwise prone to rot. They require no rooting hormone. As each pot is filled with cuttings, it needs to be watered. To minimize loss of moisture through the leaves, the cuttings need to be covered. If pots are used, the cuttings may be "stuck" about six to a pot in an area small enough to fit within the mouth of a Mason jar placed over them in the pot. Larger containers or flats may be placed in clear plastic bags tied at the top, with taller sticks used to support the plastic above the leaves. If it becomes necessary to water, be sure that the excess water is allowed to drain through holes torn in the bottom of the bag. Another preferred method is to place the bag upside down over the top of the container and secure it with a rubber band or string. Bags or jars should be opened every day or two for a few minutes of ventilation. The containers with covers should be placed where they are exposed to indirect sunlight. Direct sun would be reflected within the cover and roast the cuttings! Successful rooting will be indicated by new foliar growth. When the young plants are growing well, the whole group can be removed from the pot and divided, taking care to minimize damage to roots. Quickly plant and water the new plants. Fine roots exposed to the air too long will dry out. The young plants should be kept out of direct sun until they are ready for their new spot in the garden. Vine of the Week: Boston Ivy Recently, I have been getting many questions about the vines growing on the walls of Highway 85. Boston Ivy, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, gets noticed this time of year as it changes to fall color. This is a great vine for covering blank concrete walls, especially on the freeway, where it minimizes graffiti and reflection of noise. Boston ivy is very useful for making new stone walls fit into a landscape by toning down the starkness and making any structure it attaches itself to look as if has been there a long time. Its use should be limited, however, to walls or fences that will not be damaged by the sucker discs it uses to climb. The suckers remain if the vine is removed, which makes painting a problem. The vines rely on these discs to climb flat surfaces and are not well suited to trellises or lattice. Boston ivy will grow in almost any exposure and requires only moderate irrigation and fertilization. The leaves are typically three-lobed but may be divided into three leaflets. Leaf size and color are different among the varieties, but leaves are usually less than seven inches wide. The vines may be observed close up at San Jose State; they are the only vines there other than wisteria that change color. The stone wall on the Blossom Hill Road side of the Almaden Vineyards subdivision is also very well planted with Boston ivy. If you like the vines, I recommend getting close to see if the sucker discs are something you are willing to deal with in your own yard. You may also want to see them in the winter, as some people find the bare structure objectionable. Late winter is the best time for planting, but they are more available and do well planted in the spring. Columnist Tony Tomeo can be reached at 358-2574. [ Back to Contents Page | Los Gatos Weekly-Times Home Page | Archives ] This article appeared in the Los Gatos Weekly-Times, November 4, 1998. ©1998 Metro Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.