Falaschi himself reportedly was a baseball player. His bar provided a neighborhood spot where, when Prohibition ended, hard-working Italian men would gather at the end of the day and visitors would step off the train that ran behind the building for an evening of amusement.

It remained that way into the 1950s. In later years, it was known as Penny's Place, then New Penny's Place, where darts were thrown, pool cues clicked and the bar served a motley crowd. Occasionally, someone would order up a hamburger from a cramped kitchen at the end of the bar.

In 1993, John Mesa Jr. was sorting through junk under the old building in preparation for the remodeling that his father, John Sr., planned after purchasing the place. He came across a faded sign. The sign hangs over the back bar at what is now a totally remodeled Johnny's North Side Grill. "Falaschi's Cocktails" is a framed reminder of the building's colorful past.

But some traditions remain. Johnny's is still a neighborhood gathering spot where locals come at the end of the day. Sports still play a big part—seven television sets play games on closed circuits. In the spacious parking lot behind the restaurant, two basketball hoops invite play, as do the two 40-foot-long horseshoe courts.

In 2000, John Jr. with wife Carrie bought out his father. Today at 34, the native of Los Gatos (class of '88) runs the bar and grill with a friendly hand, selling a bottled sauce over the counter that evolved gradually, thanks to the blunt critiques of his college roommates. For eight years running, he has sponsored the Stanford Marching Band at the Children's Christmas Parade, reveling in the noisy after-parade parties with the band at Johnny's.

"It's a local, San Francisco­style, neighborhood pub on the corner," John Jr. says, smiling as he describes his place. A lot of his time is spent behind the full-service bar, shooting the breeze with customers and greeting in easy camaraderie the high school kids who trail in for lunch. He's "Johnny" to most and handles the barbecuing for parties of up to 100 guests. The big groups can be accommodated between the indoor spaces and the backyard deck where parents may eat in peace behind glass wind breaks while their kids play basketball.

"We'll close down the place for private parties, but we'll also take the barbecue to you," he says, describing the big, black grill that can be wheeled to the site of any home party. A meal of tri tip or chicken, salad and side dishes runs from $10 to $24 a head, depending on the choices. "Our catering menu includes anything I can cook on a barbecue."

He designed the menu that head cook Jose Gonzalez carries out. There are ribs, chicken and steak, starting at $7.25 for a quarter chicken to $23 for a full rack of ribs. There are soups of the day and salads— Caesar or with BBQ and fajita chicken—and burgers of all kinds with fries or beans or coleslaw. "South of the border" choices, sandwiches and appetizers abound.

"We're a fun, friendly, family atmosphere," Johnny says. "We offer sports and lots of parking."

Johnny's North Side Grill is located at 532 N. Santa Cruz Ave. in Los Gatos. It is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The bar remains open until "about midnight." For more information, call 408.395.6908.

William Wulf, Los Gatos historian, contributed information to this story.