In Masu Sushi Bistro in Saratoga, sushi sophisticates or novitiates may experience the thousand years of history behind the food. First of all, it's not raw fish. Sushi refers to the vinegar-soaked rice used in making the food. Sashimi is the raw fish that is pressed against the rice and in that form is properly called nigiri sushi, or "squeezed sushi."

At Masu, easily 25 variations of the dish and a hundred others are on the menu. For the last four years of the seven the restaurant has operated on Big Basin Way, Kelly and David Ju have shared its ownership. The Jus are Korean, as many sushi restaurant owners are, having assimilated some of the Japanese cultural influences that became embedded in the country during the 35 years Japan occupied Korea until 1945. What is traditional fare for Japan became a logical part of the Korean diet. "My brother-in-law really pushed us to learn [about sushi preparation] and taught my husband to make sushi," says Kelly, referring to the time before they emigrated from Seoul to the Bay Area. "He knew how popular it was here and what a big emphasis people put on healthful foods."

The pair entered the United States in 1994, immediately enrolling in language school. David became a sushi chef at a restaurant catering to a large and lively business community in San Mateo. Today, he and Kelly—aka Kum Sun—own the place. David manages San Mateo while she runs Masu. "Saratoga is very quiet—so peaceful," she reflects. "I like it here." She manages her place with a gentle hand, choosing to use subtle suggestions with her eight employees over abrupt commands. "If there is something special I want, I'll buy a book and show a picture and ask, 'What do you think of that?' "

Good ideas have resulted from this method. Sushi Chef Sean Chung, for instance, has created a dish that will celebrate his recent promotion to head chef. It's called "Sean's Baked Roll." While most sushi chefs commonly use yellow tail or white fish in their rolls, for this roll, Chef Sean bakes scallops, using a secret sauce with a cheese powder.

For his miso salad, Chef Sean uses another sauce with secret ingredients. It is rich and creamy and intriguingly sweet, made with a base of mayonnaise and the golden yellow miso bean, with sesame and sugar. The $5.95 size is enough for lunch.

A lunch deal is in the bento box. It includes two or three choices from among tempura, sashimi, gyoza (pot sticker), kappa maki (cucumber roll), California roll or tekka maki (tuna), plus chicken, beef or salmon teriyaki—all for $9.95 or $11.95.

For dinner, appetizers may be mixed to make a meal. Entrees of teriyaki and barbecue chicken, seabass, salmon, short ribs, ahi tuna and shrimp (around $17) with a side of shrimp, pork cutlet or vegetable tempura (around $14) are enough for two.

Here's a tip: For the uninitiated, sushi etiquette says never leave rice after a meal (a good list of rules is listed at www.international-gourmet.net/sushi/etiquette.htm).

Masu Sushi Bistro is located at 14510 Big Basin Way in Saratoga. Lunch is served Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday through Thursday is from 5 until 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. and Sunday from 4 until 9:30 p.m. Call 408.868.0600.