"Any other morning it might be the Sex Pistols or Paul Simon," says new chef Nick Difu, whose broad grin sets the tone. "Music is key in my kitchen. I need it to get going in the morning."

There are no tantrums in this kitchen. The legendary raging tempers attributed to many chefs are not affected here. The comradeship is tangible between Difu and his sous chefs, Jacob Guzman and Greg Flores, and the six other kitchen staffers. "This place is a great fit. We get great support," he says, referring to the enthusiastic Haucks, a family team of owners consisting of Larry, the father, and siblings Lisa, Julie and Steve. The Haucks have owned the Wine Cellar for 14 years. It had been turned into a restaurant in 1966 as part of Los Gatos' Old Town. It's now a candle-lit sanctuary for romantics.

The Haucks called Difu when they learned he had left Café Marcella, which is under new ownership. "The Haucks are young, I'm young (33). We have a lot of energy and great ideas," he adds, acknowledging that the change has allowed him to create a menu he's been eager to try out. "It's California cuisine. That's so broad. It means I can have French, Italian and Asian. I'm not restricted by the name of the place—I can make anything I want in a wine cellar."

Regular customers needn't worry. Many of the old favorites that do not appear on the new menu will be coming back as specials—like the meat loaf and the Colorado lamb chops. Difu is also bringing in some of his signature dishes from Café Marcella, such as his Ahi salad, mushroom risotto and foie gras au torchon (goose liver "in a towel").

Difu has a new favorite. It's lobster ravioli with a vanilla orange cream sauce. The sauce is made by reducing white wine and orange juice with shallots, then adding vanilla bean, salt and pepper and sugar to taste. "It's my baby," he smiles.

There's a big focus on both cheese and chocolate fondues. The cheeses are traditional Swiss and Gruyère or cheddar and ale, served with an assortment of bread, veggies and fruit ($16). Milk and dark chocolate are served with "dipping goodies" and ice cream ($13). It's even available for brunch on Sundays along with eggs and all the fixings.

A full-service bar hosted by bartender Ruben Lopez serves appetizers, like crispy crab cakes ($13) and beef carpaccio ($13). And there's still time for lunch or dinner on the open patio upstairs under some great oak trees.

Difu is no stranger to Los Gatos and Saratoga, where he lived while growing up (St. Francis High School class of '89). After graduation, he tried college, "but it didn't work out," he says. Where he felt most at home was in the busy kitchen run by his Italian grandmother, in the company of his sister, Gayelyn (Dibonno), and brother Joe. "She was always happy to feed us," he recalls. "She made us feel good." It resulted in his attending the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. He graduated 10 years ago. Today, the smile customers see shining from the Wine Cellar's open kitchen is Difu's. It's his way of saying, "I'm always happy to feed you."

The Wine Cellar is located at 50 University Ave. in Los Gatos. It's open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. until 9 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. Call 408.354.4808.