A fixture at local Italian festivals, the Italian deli--famous for its handmade ravioli--is like kin to longtime locals who have been customers for years at the Stevens Creek Boulevard location, where it first served its taste of Italy in 1954. Thousands of locals knew it then as Pianto's Deli. The Lupretta family took it over in 1994.

Headed by Daryle Lupretta, who describes himself as "manager/dishwasher and delivery boy/owner," the family is moving the eatery to the Village during the week of March 21, citing a need for a more modern facility. The new look at what was formerly a dark and carpeted wine and tapas bar includes light hardwood floors, ochre walls and a bright, open kitchen. An original 20-foot mural depicting a vineyard has been saved.

One kitchen wall includes two large windows where customers may watch Lupretta press out his raviolis with a 1908 vintage ravioli press with solid brass cutters. Large display cases will contain made-on-the-premises lasagnas, spaghetti, pasta salads, rigatoni and the specialties of the house--raviolis filled with beef and Swiss chard and ricotta cheese and Swiss chard.

"People freeze them, then put them in suitcases to take to Atlanta or New York," Lupretta smiles. A box of 100 uncooked ravioli (about two pounds) runs $11 and feeds five to six people. The house meat sauce is $6.50 a quart. Marinara sauce is also available.

"Swiss chard has always been used in the stuffing because it was so plentiful back then, growing everywhere in yards and driveways," Lupretta says, referring to the 1950s. "But we stay with it because some people think it's a little sweeter."

On another sweet note, the deli makes all of its own canoli, the tubular pastry filled with whipped ricotta, and tiramisu, the layered and filled cake that's name translates as "carry me up ... "--to heaven is the assumption. In addition, Lupretta's mother, Jo, is known by regulars for the cucciadotti cookies that she bakes from Thanksgiving through New Year's. "They're somewhat like a fig newton, but then again nothing like them," explains Lupretta of the dried fig- and apricot-filled and frosted confections.

The deli's minestrone soup is sold by the quart. It goes well with the made-to-order Italian sandwiches which include prociutto, mortadella, coppa (peppered ham), meatball and lots of cheese. Pizzas also are made in-house, and a steam table will feature a special each day.

"Our Saratoga customers are really glad we're moving here," Lupretta says, noting how warmed he was by one couple in particular. "They drove all the way to the old location in their vintage 1948 red Buick just to say welcome. They had been watching our remodeling progress every day when they took their walk and were looking forward to the opening," he added. "I have a '53 Ford, and they offered to hook me up with the right restorer after we're settled in."

Lupretta is a native of San Jose who grew up in the Rose Garden district where his family, with a Calabrese heritage, settled in the 1930s. When he bought Pianto's in the early '90s, he brought along his mother, Jo, sister Denise--both of San Jose--and cousin Melinda Lupretta Wellnor of Campbell, to lend their cooking expertise. The Saratoga building is now owned by Rick Ratra, who also owns the 76 Station just down the street.

Lupretta's Deli and Catering is located at 14480 Big Basin Way in Saratoga. Call 408.484.0004 for take-out orders.