 There are probably not many of us who remember primitive metal nursery cans--who actually miss them. Because most were not tapered, plants would not easily slide out, but needed to be wrestled with and were consequently more prone to root damage. Cutting cans down the sides and then splitting them open was safer to the roots, but not so safe to whoever was handling the jagged and sharp metal.
Nursery staff were happy to cut cans before plants left the nursery, which made things a bit easier, but also messier and possibly more damaging to car upholstery on the way home. Cut cans could not be recycled, and intact cans could not be stacked to save space if stored to be reused.
Contemporary "plastic" cans, which are actually made of a vinyl-like substance with a name I cannot pronounce, are so much easier to handle. They are tapered and rather slippery, so even swollen and constricted root-balls slide out easily. Because they do not get cut, they can be recycled. Their tapered shape allows them to be stacked in minimal space. Recycling and stacking may not be so important in a home garden, but it makes things easier for landscapers to return cans to nurseries to be reused.
The only disadvantage of black plastic cans is that they become uncomfortably warm if too exposed to sunlight. Warmth promotes decay and can even cook roots in extreme cases. If plants are not going to be installed immediately after bringing them home from the nursery, the cans should be put in the shade.
If the delay is going to be so long that the plants might actually become stressed from being in the shade, try nestling the cans in deep ivy or other lower perennials. Incidentally, No. 5 (5 gallon) cans fit nicely into grocery bags, which might look trashy in the garden, but they do work. Some plants can be left in their cans indefinitely if placed within larger pots or urns.
Standard sizes of plants in the nursery (nursery stock) are designated by the size of their containers. The most common are No.1, No. 5 and No.15 (1, 5 and 15 gallon). There are a few sizes in between, such as No. 2, No. 3, No. 7 and No. 10. Small annuals and some perennials are available in cell packs (six packs), larger jumbo packs and 4-inch pots. Larger trees are available in boxes, which are designated by their widths, with 24, 36 and 48 inches being the most common. Like can sizes, however, there are a few sizes in between and beyond. The largest trees are not in containers at all, but are field grown to be dug and installed directly into a landscape.
Plants comparable to No. 5 or No. 15 are only rarely available "balled and burlapped" (B&B), which means they were originally field grown and then dug so that their roots could be contained in burlap. Such plants are generally grown in the Northwest, where B&B is more common. Some deciduous plants, particularly roses and fruit trees, are available "bare root" in winter. These plants are dug, pruned (both stems and roots) and sold without soil for immediate installation in the garden.
There are, of course, other ways to get new plants into your garden.
Planting seeds--which are available most any time of the year--is a very practical way to grow many annuals and vegetables, particularly those that do not transplant well. Bulbs, on the other hand, are available at the time of year when the plants are dormant, usually in the fall.
Flower of the Week:
Carnation
The common carnation, Dianthus caryophyllus, is one of the most popular cut flowers but is one of the least common dianthus in gardens. "Florists' carnations" (the familiar cut flowers) can get as tall as 4 feet and produce ruffled 3-inch wide flowers that are often variegated. Color range includes white, pink, red and pale shades of orange, yellow and purple.
Bushier "border carnations" are only about a foot tall with more profuse flowers that are about 2-inches wide. Both types have bluish narrow leaves and swollen nodes (where the leaves are attached to the stems). Flowers are more or less fragrant. Carnations like full sun, but not heat. Soil should be rich and well-drained.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be
contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.
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