The name of the restaurant has a long history associated with fine French dining in San Jose since 1977 when Gervais Henric founded it there. Then, it reflected the founder's Marseilles and Basque roots. Today in Saratoga, the transplanted eatery reflects contemporary Europe and a California look. Besides the freshness of green and yellow walls and a high rustic ceiling stirred by slowly moving fans, the menu mirrors the environmental sensitivity of its young owners.

"We're big into organic," Mark Ainsworth says simply. Salads of baby greens and the fresh summer vegetables and seasonal dessert berries come fresh from rows of carefully coddled produce free of chemicals and hormones. It also means that seafood such as the special order abalone on Friday (four days advance notice), Napa cabbage-wrapped filet of sole, the almond dusted-red snapper or the butter-poached Maine lobster are chosen because they are environmentally sound.

"We're part of the Seafood Watch program out of the Monterey Bay Aquarium," he explains. Members avoid using fish that are overfished or have other problems, "like farm salmon that are putting lots of bacteria back into their environment." Mark is quick to point out that he is merely a co-owner—that credit for the menu, the creative dishes and fine sauces and the operation of the restaurant belongs to Sheloh, executive chef and manager. On this early Monday evening, there are regulars arriving who will attest to her effectiveness.

"It's the best I've had in the South Bay," says Gary Anderson, a six-month resident of Saratoga from Memphis, Tenn., who dines at Gervais up to three times a week. "I bring my whole family here," he says.

The Andersons, like many others beyond the loyal regulars from years past, are soaking up the bright and casual ambience that Sheloh and Mark have created. There's a new lounge in an area with a wood burning stove with a curving bar offering light appetizers in the $7 range and full service—from choice local wines to drinks like the hangar one vodka-laced hypnotini ($10). A flat screen television above the bar continuously plays black and white Audrey Hepburn movies. Casual attire is welcome, but cell phones are not. Even shorts-clad folks will be offered a spot on the warm front patio. "We like to say we're an upscale neighborhood restaurant with casual elegance," Mark notes.

For the Montalvo or Mountain Winery-bound, Sheloh offers a special concert tasting prix-fixe menu. Three courses might include a salad of baby greens, a New York steak and a mille-feuille—crisp puff pastry filled with fresh berries and whipped cream—all for $29.99.

Mark is a pastry chef whose day job is overseeing all of the dessert production at the Pebble Beach golf course restaurants and golf shacks. His off-hours are spent with Sheloh at Gervais filling in where needed and creating the pastries. He and Sheloh met when both were employed in Florida by the five-star Ritz Carlton Hotel chain. Gervais was their first business venture, an opportunity they seized not long after the hotel chain transferred Mark to the Bay Area.

"When we first opened, it was so illuminating," he recalls. "It wasn't just cooking ... But word-of-mouth has been great."

Gervais is located at 14560 Big Basin Way in Saratoga. It is open for dinner Monday through Friday from 5:30 until 9 p.m. and until 10 p.m. on Saturday. Closed Sunday. Call 408.867.7017 or visit GervaisRestaurant.com.