Antony Kim--a Korean by birth, an aficionado of Japanese cuisine by upbringing and a U.S. resident by choice--is a sushi fusion chef. He learned the basics of his skill from his father, who won a sushi championship in Osaka, Japan, spoke fluent Japanese and owned a Japanese restaurant in their seaport hometown of Pusan, South Korea. It was there that Kim became adept as a diver, catching the sea life he prepared under the guidance of his father.

Eventually, he took over his father's restaurant. It was the first leg of a quarter century-long culinary journey that next led to Sydney, Australia, where he served as a hotel garde manger chef, carving ice sculptures for elegant tables. His subsequent move was to Palo Alto, where he served as a sushi chef at Fuki Sushi restaurant for eight years. Five months ago, the journey culminated in the grand opening of his own restaurant in the Rinconada Center on Pollard Road in Los Gatos. Kim, 46, calls it Sushi E! "The E stands for excitement, entertainment and enchantment," he smiles.

Sushi E! is a "full course" restaurant, including teriyaki, tempura, sashimi and sushi. The fish come from Hawaii, Japan and Canada. Kim prepares everything fresh each day at a small sushi bar where his customers like to sit and watch him work. Students from across the street at the Rolling Hills Middle School come in to linger at the tables in groups, ordering California rolls, Mickey Mouse with orange rolls or the special service of the house--10 kinds of boats. "I have 25 years of experience," he explains proudly. "I am like an artist."

Kim specializes in making miniature dishes, like tiny seaweed salad, baby eggplant or small pickles that Asians in particular enjoy eating in between sips of beer, wine or sake. "Americans like to drink before eating, and that's it," he observes.

Customers from Saratoga, Campbell and Los Gatos--including the many who share his homeland--give Kim free rein to create special sushi combinations and elegant garnishes. But his favorite dish to prepare is an ahi tuna salad.

Working with him behind the sushi bar is brother-in-law Kevin. Kim's wife, Young Sook, and sister Terry serve as hostesses and run the front of the house. Reflecting on the family operation, which shifts into high gear for the myriad lunchtime/dinnertime/takeout orders, Kim says, "In Australia they say, 'Take it easy here, but in America you have to work hard.' It's true. I have to move more quickly and be smart, otherwise I'm not going to make it at this game. I want to be successful for our future."

The Kims, residents of Palo Alto, have two daughters. The older remains in Seoul, where she is a disk jockey for a radio station. The younger Anna, 17, wants to go to college to become a Christian missionary in either China or Africa. "She helped me learn English," Kim says, adding proudly, "She has a plan. She asks me to pray for her."

When he has time off, Kim drives up the Mendocino coast, where he dives for abalone, sharing his 12-inch catches with family and friends.

Sushi E!, 1458 Pollard Road in Los Gatos, is open Monday through Thursday for lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., and dinner 5-9:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 10 p.m. Call 408.379.3711.