This is the time of year I forgive sweetgum for its innate structural deficiency and annoying maces (seedpods) because it puts on the most impressive show of red, orange, yellow and even burgundy for the longest time. Chinese pistache and flowering pear are almost as colorful, lacking only in abundance of dark burgundy foliage.

With the exception of silver maple, the various species and hybrids of North American maples can be comparably colored. Their only weakness is that they need cold weather in autumn to color well. The native bigleaf maple colors well even during mild autumns, but is limited to yellow. Efficient defoliation makes maples cleaner than trees that drop their leaves slowly through autumn, but unfortunately also limits the duration of their colorful performance.

Poplar, tulip tree, Modesto ash, fruitless mulberry and particularly gingko turn yellow in autumn. Trees that turn yellow generally seem to be as clean as maples and color as reliably during mild autumns as sweetgum. However, elms turn only dingy yellow and are one of the messier deciduous trees, dropping leaves all autumn and winter.

Fall color is not exclusive to trees. Witch hazel, crape myrtle, barberry, oak leaf hydrangea and some viburnum are shrubby plants that can be as colorful as some of the more familiar trees. Grape, wisteria and particularly Boston ivy are colorful deciduous vines. Although not nearly as colorful as deciduous plants, a few evergreen plants like heavenly bamboo and Japanese cryptomeria can turn color in autumn or winter.

The deciduous trees that provide fall color are more suitable near homes than evergreen trees. They allow warming sunlight through when it is needed most in winter and provide shade in summer. However, deciduous shrubs and vines are often not as practical. When the leaves fall off and are raked away, the bare soil below shrubbery, or the bare wall behind vines becomes visible.

Colorful leaves are certainly pleasing in trees, shrubs and vines, and for a while after they fall on the lawn. However, they eventually need to be raked. Shade under accumulated leaves can damage lawn, groundcover and annuals. Wet leaves on pavement can be dangerously slippery. Tannins from leaves can stain pavement and decking.

The volume of leaves from large trees can be overwhelming. Once on the compost pile, fallen leaves fortunately decompose more rapidly than greener material, such as prunings and cut grass that accumulated earlier when weather was warmer.

Tree of the Week: Weeping willow

Weeping willow, Salix babylonica, is one of those trees that are best in a neighbor's garden. Although it can be one of the most distinctive and appealing large trees in a neighborhood, it is too large, too aggressive and too weak (structurally) for most urban landscapes. At older homes, the roots can ruin unsealed iron or terra cotta sewer pipes. Weeping willow has a limited life span, so after it has crowded out other trees and broken pavement, it dies. Just don't tell the neighbors.

Regardless of the defects, weeping willow can be useful in large landscapes, particularly where drainage is a problem or near ponds and streams. It only needs to be pruned occasionally so that it does not collapse under its own weight. Within only a few years, it can become quite imposing. Mature trees are usually wider than tall. The lanceolate (lance-shaped), three-inch long leaves turn yellow in autumn.

Weeping willow can be grown from a stick in the mud. If stuck while still bare at the end of winter, twigs will root as they leaf out in spring. Twigs can also be stuck during summer if stripped of leaves. New leaves emerge as roots form. It is easier to stick twigs directly where new trees are desired instead of in pots.

Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.