Photograph by Kathy De La Torre
Poinsettias need not be discarded after Christmas; in fact, they can flourish in the garden if given the proper care.
Live Christmas trees have both good and bad points
By Tony Tomeo
This year, I was fortunate to be busy with other work during the annual Christmas tree relocation at the Moerdyke residence at the nursery where I work. Every year, Laurie Moerdyke selects a live tree from stock to be brought by the rest of us up the hill, up a few stairs, down a narrow walkway, through a small kitchen and into the parlor.
Because Pete Moerdyke does not grow many coniferous trees, most on the farm are imported from Oregon to be grown into larger sizes. Unfortunately, most Oregon-grown conifers are field grown in endemic soil that is very dense and heavy. Every year, this dreaded chore reminds me that I really should plant a few trees to eventually be cut as Christmas trees.
Most people are aware of the problems associated with cut trees, as well as the expense. However, live trees present problems, as well. The most obvious problem is the stress caused by warm temperatures and dry air inside the home. It must also be terribly embarrassing for a tree to be so lavishly adorned.
Another problem is that the trees do not want to spend the rest of their lives in a container. Live Christmas trees are usually marketed at their best and with a proportionate root system. Unless they are properly maintained, they may develop circling roots in their first year. Conifers are especially susceptible to root structure problems in containers.
The third problem is where to plant the tree when it retires. I mentioned this problem last week in association with the Canary Island pine. It is also a problem with Aleppo pines, Italian stone pines, Monterey pines and a few other miscellaneous conifers.
The problems of environment within the home and embarrassment among other trees cannot easily be changed, but trees eventually recover. Proper irrigation while inside will help compensate for increased evapotranspiration. The other two problems are somewhat more of a challenge.
To maintain a live Christmas tree in a container, it should be planted in something larger than that it was grown in, if practical. (Many field grown trees, such as those from Oregon, have recently been canned and may stay in containers until the roots become crowded.) If black vinyl containers are used and are not shaded by the tree or nearby plants, they should be inserted into a larger container so the vinyl does not become uncomfortably warm with direct sun exposure.
Trees may stay in the same container for several years if "root pruned" as necessary. This involves removing the tree from the container and cutting vertically through horizontally circling roots. Depth of the cut should be sufficient to reach all circling roots. If a thick mat of circling and intertwined roots forms at the bottom of the root system, it may be removed completely. If soil "collapses" (decomposes) with age, the tree may be "stuffed" by adding soil around and below (but not above) the root system.
About halfway through summer, Christmas trees should be sheared into shape. By this time, they will have grown somewhat but still have time to "fluff out" some more so they do not look sheared when brought inside next winter.
Whether retiring a tree after years of service or planting a young tree after the first year, location is very important. To determine how much space is required, it is first necessary to identify the species. Even experienced garden enthusiasts may have difficulty identifying very young trees, as juvenile foliage is very different from adult foliage. Canary Island pines, for example, exhibit small, blue needles, resembling those of blue spruce. If the tree can be identified, the space requirements may then be determined. The most common mistake made with live Christmas trees is planting them in spaces too small for their mature size.
Flower of the Week: Poinsettia
Although most poinsettias, Euphorbia pulcherrima, are discarded when they lose their bright red "blooms," they may be planted in the garden where they can grow to 10 feet tall. Because they can be damaged by frost, they should be planted under eves or under taller trees, but preferably facing south so that they get good sun exposure. They may get lanky if not pruned regularly, but produce larger blooms if thinned instead.
Potted poinsettias may hold their blooms for a long time, but their natural cycle is to drop most of their foliage in late winter, when they may be pruned and planted out in the garden. It is very difficult to get them to bloom again if kept as house plants. They may bloom outside, but usually after Christmas. Flowers are actually inconspicuous yellow structures at the centers of the blooms, which are composed of colored leaves known as bracts. Colors include red, white, pink, salmon and yellow and may be marbled, veined or speckled.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574.
Saratoga, California Since 1955
