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Although the Brazilian pepper tree shares the same genus as the California pepper tree, it has very different growth habits and appearance.
Photograph by Shari Kaplan
Winter pruning important for growth of some fruits
By Tony Tomeo
I can still remember the distinctive fragrance of orchard pruning debris being burned, prevalent throughout the Santa Clara Valley every winter during my childhood. In the area where my family lived, apricot orchards were more common. All the trees needed to be pruned prior to bloom in early spring. Because there were so many and time was limited, pruning would begin shortly after the trees defoliated.
As the orchards were displaced by other less pleasurable industries, the professionals who maintained them became more scarce. It is now difficult to procure the services of a horticultural professional qualified to perform winter pruning of fruit trees. In fact, I currently know of only one arborist, to whom I refer my clients. Unfortunately, one arborist cannot gratify all those in need of his services.
Those fortunate enough to have their trees pruned by a qualified arborist are aware that such services can be somewhat costly. In conjunction with the cost of care throughout the year, the total cost of domestic fruit production can be more expensive than purchasing the same quantity of fruit from retail markets.
Of course, garden enthusiasts generally do not grow fruit trees exclusively to obtain large quantities of fruit, but because winter pruning of fruit trees is one of the most intimate forms of horticultural therapy. Therefore, those who enjoy growing fruit trees should know how to prune them properly.
The Sunset Western Garden Book describes basic winter fruit tree pruning. Other related publications by Sunset describe pruning in more detail as well as specific requirements of each type of fruit tree, grapevine and berry cane. (Citrus and evergreen fruit trees are not pruned in winter.) The procedures may seem severe to those beginning to study them, but it is rare that a domestic fruit tree is pruned too drastically.
Winter is the best season to prune because the trees are dormant. As dormancy ends, growth is concentrated among remaining stems and can be left to complete a year (growing season) of a natural growth and fruit production cycle. Pruning during active growth disrupts the natural growth cycle and can expose interior limbs to sun scald if pruning is severe. Winter pruning must be performed every winter, including the first when a tree is installed as bare-root stock. About half of the stem growth should be removed at that time, depending on cultivar.
Horticulturist Ed Laivo of Dave Wilson Nursery (wholesale growers only) has developed an alternative to exclusive winter pruning. Unlike traditional pruning developed for orchards and modified for semi-dwarf garden trees, the procedures known as Backyard Orchard Culture have been developed for fruit production in very limited garden space. Summer pruning is performed to control size by removal of superfluous growth, as well as to interrupt and slow the natural growth cycle. Consequently, very limited size may be maintained without compromising fruit production.
Backyard Orchard Culture cannot be performed on trees that have already been pruned and structured in a conventional manner, but may be useful for people considering installation of new trees, particularly if space is limited. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with Backyard Orchard Culture and cannot adequately describe it for those interested; but I will try to identify a source of more information on the subject later.
Tree of the Week: Brazilian pepper
The Brazilian pepper tree, Schinus terebinthifolius, is related to the more familiar California pepper, S. molle, but distinctly different. The foliar canopy is dense and dark green, and may eventually grow to 25 feet tall and wide. The glossy, pinnately compound leaves are composed of less than 11 leaflets. Genetic variations that affect structure, foliage and berry production are common because the trees are grown from seed.
The showy red berries that appear in winter are considered by some to be a nuisance. Young trees should be staked because trunk development may not be proportionate to development of the canopy. If the canopy becomes too dense, it should be thinned to decrease wind resistance. Development of surface roots may be a problem.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.
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Saratoga, California Since 1955
