It's possible to force the issue with bulbs

By Tony Tomeo

Nearly every week, my friends at Gilley's Coffee Shoppe send me down the street to retrieve flowers for their tables from the local floral shop, Bunches of Los Gatos. I enjoy choosing flowers, but I am not very good at selecting appropriate colors. Consequently, I spend more time than I should in the store and often return with more flowers than we know what to do with. However, I enjoy this weekly ritual, because it keeps me updated on what cut flowers and potted blooming plants are seasonable and fashionable. Although Bunches is a complete florist shop with a floral design studio and very interesting inventory (most of which is grown on their farm in Watsonville and brought to the shop the morning after harvest), I go there because flowers may be purchased in bunches (duh!) rather than exclusively in floral arrangements or by the stem.

During my most recent visits to Bunches, I noticed small, ornamental pots containing bulbs which have been "forced" into bloom. The process of forcing involves growing bulbs inside a comfortable home or warm greenhouse to convince them that it is spring. (Bulbs are not too smart.) If they are grown in potting soil, the bulbs are more likely to survive after bloom and may eventually be planted in the garden.

Usually, forcing is done with ornamental gravel or small stones supporting the bulbs over water in which the roots grow; almost like hydroponic culture. Unless these bulbs are planted in the garden immediately after bloom while the foliage is still green and functional, they usually die after exhausting all the resources. The water in which they grow does not supply the nutrients which are necessary for continued growth. Although it is late to plant bulbs for spring and summer, some nurseries continue to stock some bulbs which may either be planted late or forced.

If using the second method of forcing bulbs, you can be very creative in choosing containers and growing media. The winter after I completed my internship with a tree service company, I forced hyacinth in my hard-hat. I have also found a hub cap from my 1970 Buick Electra to be quite functional. You can also use small bird baths, ornamental bowls, quiche dishes, casseroles, mugs or even dishes made specifically for the purpose. Many horticultural establishments stock vases which hold single bulbs over a small reservoir of water in which no media is required for support. Otherwise, the media is usually gravel, but may be small polished stones or marbles. You can be as imaginative with the growing media as with the containers.

When placing bulbs in the media, they do not need to be covered with it. However, I prefer to cover them at least part way just to keep them upright. The bases of the bulbs should all be at the same level and rest in the media at the surface of the water. If partially submerged, they may rot. If too high, roots will desiccate before they reach the water. As roots begin to grow, it is important to maintain the water at this critical level. Eventually roots will be stronger and the actively growing bulbs will be less susceptible to rot; so water level may be allowed to fluctuate somewhat.

Bulbs which are suitable for forcing include Dutch iris, hyacinth, grape hyacinth, tulip, freesia, crocus, daffodil and narcissus. If selecting other species for forcing, they must be either bulbs, or in some cases, corms. (Bulbs are composed of swollen leaf bases attached to a basal plate stem. Corms, such as gladioli and watsonias, are swollen stem bases.) Tubers, (undifferentiated swollen stem bases, such as anemones) tuberous roots, (swollen roots, such as dahlias) and rhizomes (swollen stems which grow laterally at or just below the soil surface, such as bearded iris) are not suitable for forcing because they either rot or desiccate.

Another form of forcing involves dormant branches of flowering plants. Later in the winter, just before these plants bloom, branches may be cut and brought inside where the warm temperatures accelerate the bloom cycle. The branches stay fresh in water until they are finished blooming. I think the best species for this type of forcing are the various spring-blooming fruit trees and their fruitless relatives. These include apple, pear, cherry, apricot, peach, nectarine, plum and almond. With the exception of apple, the fruitless relatives of these are referred to as "flowering," such as flowering cherry. Because fruit trees are normally pruned in winter anyway, it is acceptable to leave a few branches. These should be left to be cut later and brought in just prior to blooming.

Flower of the Week: Crocus

Crocus vernus, commonly called crocus, is probably the first corm to bloom. When I was very young, my mother would remind me that they would come up through the snow; but as a native to the Santa Clara Valley, I have yet to see this. Foliage is small and grasslike. The flowers, which range in color from white, yellow, purple and blue, are also small and low to the ground. They look best when planted in profusion and can eventually naturalize.

If divided every few years, the resulting extra corms may be used around the garden. Their small size make them ideal for forcing in small containers. Although it is best to plant them earlier, they can still be found in some nurseries, and may be planted up until the weather gets too warm. They are tolerant of the mild winter weather and usually bloom reliably once established.

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Horticulturalist Tony Tomeo can be reached at 408.358.2574.

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