Saratoga News Gardening Tony Tomeo Prune roses only after the buds begin to swell By now, you may be wondering why I have not yet recommended pruning your roses--especially when it was so important to prune fruit trees earlier in the winter. The reason is that roses have a bad habit of starting new growth immediately after pruning. If pruned too early in the season, premature growth would be slow and stunted; which wastes energy and promotes bad form. This late in the season, buds should be swelling, indicating that your roses are ready to be pruned. Rose pruning may seem rather brutal. At least a quarter and as much as half of the previous year's growth must be removed. Cuts should be made about 1/4 inch above a bud which is between 12 and 18 inches above the graft union. Outward facing buds are more desirable because they direct new growth away from the center of the plant, minimizing crowding. The cuts should be at about a 45-degree slant, sloping away from the bud to help direct the flow of nutrients to the newly developing shoot. Any growth originating below the graft union should be removed completely. Of course any dead, dying, diseased or damaged growth (the four D's) needs to be removed. Remember to sterilize shears between cuts if any disease is suspected. The remaining growth is selectively thinned until each plant has between three and six "canes." Good canes are from last year's growth originating close to the graft union, with no branches. Not all roses are so well behaved, so it may be necessary to save older growth or to allow plants to remain taller than 18 inches in order to save healthy buds. In addition to roses, many plants will soon be coming out of dormancy; and will be waking up hungry! Deciduous fruit trees prefer a high nitrogen fertilizer at least two weeks before blooming. Other woody ornamentals should be fertilized as growth starts. Lawns, perennials and spring annuals may be fertilized after mid-February even if growth is not yet apparent. Camellias and azaleas that have finished blooming need a complete, high-acid fertilizer. Flower of the Week: Rhododendron This is the time of year rhododendrons start getting attention, and as they commence their bloom cycles, they will begin showing up in retail nurseries. Although rhododendrons are not low-maintenance plants, they are well suited to our climatic zone if given the proper care. The main requirement of healthy rhododendrons is rich, well-drained soil. The roots like to be moist, but will rot if kept too wet. The soil in our area requires liberal amendment with organic matter for water retention and sand for drainage. Raised beds filled with half composted organic matter, 30-percent soil and 20-percent sand are ideal. Because the soil here is also alkaline, rhododendrons perform better if given acidifying fertilizer monthly, beginning at the end of the bloom cycle. When planting rhododendrons, never bury the root ball deeper than the level at which it was grown. Some gardeners actually plant with the top of the root system slightly exposed to avoid burying the base of the stem, which can easily rot as the weather warms up. Rhododendrons have shallow, fibrous roots, which prefer mulching. Rhododendrons prefer part shade and even the sun-tolerant cultivars may get leaf burn if overexposed on long summer days. Deep shade, however, will cause plants to stretch for the sunlight, making them lanky and unproductive. They do best as understory plants in the light shade of taller trees. The main pest problem is root weevils that feed on the root system. The adult beetle feeds on the foliage indicating an infestation. Adults may be killed as they emerge in the spring with Orthene applied every two weeks until there is no new damage. If adults are kept under control, infestation of the damaging larvae is less likely. Most rhododendron flowers range in color from white to pink to red, but there are also many in the blue and purple range and even some in the yellow to orange range. Flowers are produced in clusters called "trusses" ranging from two inches across to large open branch-like trusses supporting individual blooms up to six inches across. Spent flowers should be removed from the plant by simply snapping off the whole truss. Branches that do not end in a truss may have their terminal buds removed or "pinched" at the same time to promote development of a compact shrubby structure. Plants range in size from shrubs shorter than one foot to small trees. Most of what is stocked in retail nurseries ranges from two feet to 10 feet. Because so many cultivars are available, no one nursery can possibly stock them all. If you require a particular cultivar, ask your retailer. He may be able to get it for you. The best place to see the potential of rhododendrons is at Bay Laurel Nursery in Scotts Valley. As if all the cultivars commonly available were not enough, Bay Laurel Nursery produces countless more that are very rarely seen outside the nursery or the gardens of collectors. Many of these may be seen in the constantly evolving Perry Moerdyke Memorial Demonstration Gardens at the nursery. Unfortunately, Bay Laurel is strictly a wholesale operation, only open to the public two days of the year. On April 10 and 24, Bay Laurel Nursery will be open for its annual open house. Call 831/438-3999 for reservations and directions. Call Tony Tomeo at 358-2574. [ Back to Contents Page | Saratoga News Home Page | Archives ] This article appeared in the Saratoga News, February 10, 1999. ©1999 Metro Publishing, Inc. 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