Saratoga News

Photograph by George Sakkestad

Michael and Lindsey Ryan stand outside Lindsey's, the restaurant they are opening in the former Summit Inn.

Commuters, mountain folk welcome summit restaurant

By Suzanne Cristallo

Highway 17 commuters and weekend drivers may be delighted to know their tortuous trip over the mountain can be broken up with a respite at the soon-to-be-opening Lindsey's at the Summit.

In a clearing on the west side of the highway with a view of the ocean, diners can be soothed by the sound of trickling water in a willow-shaded pond and pleased by Lindsey Ryan's menu.

Ryan, 37, was chef and partner at Cafe Trio in Los Gatos until last August, when she signed a lease on the summit property. It so happens the plot was once part of vast acreage owned by her great-great-grandfather, Charles C. Martin, founder in 1880 of the nearby resort town of Glenwood.

Present owner Walt Hoefler, who purchased the property from Lindsey's great-uncle, chose Ryan as a tenant over a clamoring throng of fast-food applicants, including Burger King and In-N-Out Burgers. While Lindsey indicates that hamburgers may be on the menu occasionally, she says they will take a back seat to fresh fish, rotisserie chicken and venison--the fare proven by straw poll to be the most popular among mountain residents eager for a restaurant to call their own.

"It's kind of fun to be able to pick and choose what you want," she says. "Everything can change. We're just waiting to see what the demand is."

In her quest to find a contractor to do renovations, Lindsey accepted the bid of an old acquaintance, Los Gatan Michael Ryan. She was impressed partly by Michael's construction expertise and with his ability to cook up tasty huevos rancheros. Ultimately, romance blossomed, and the two were married last December, settling a short walk from their new restaurant.

Since then, they have been scurrying to ready the former Summit Inn, which was vacated nearly a year ago. An opening tentatively scheduled for this weekend has been put into limbo awaiting the county's issuance of final permits.

Meanwhile, Michael has opened up the dining area in a contemporary style brightened by skylights and cable lighting, while Lindsey and her sister, Sue Barraza, have designed and upholstered in three colors the vinyl chairs and banquet seating.

Barraza will be serving as "barista" at the planned espresso bar, with Lindsey serving as manager and kitchen overseer while cooking breakfasts and preparing deli-style lunches. Jeff Heickson, formerly chef at Cafe Sparrow in Aptos, will prepare dinner.

The breakfast menu features basic egg dishes, waffles, pancakes and quiche, along with Michael's huevos rancheros and Lindsey's father's spicy brown sausage in a creamy sauce served over buttermilk biscuits.

Lunch in the deli style includes fresh rolls, salads, several soups, sandwiches, lasagna and pastries, along with containers of sushi and fish to go. Sit-down dinners in addition to grilled meats, game and baked fish include family-style platters of scallops and prawns and a children's menu with kebobs and pastas.

Lindsey's at the Summit, 23123 Santa Cruz Highway, Los Gatos. Open daily 6 a.m.- 10 p.m. Call for precise opening. 353-5679.

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