Photograph by Kathy De La Torre
Bob Kundus and Esther Seehof, co-owners of the Laurel Mill Lodge, are hosting a series of brunches to introduce locals to their resort, which is located along a creek amid a sea of redwoods.
Laurel Mill Lodge reprises its popular brunch series
By Suzanne Cristallo
"Nothing but clean plates went back to the kitchen," claims Bob Kundus, describing a series of brunches he and partner Esther Seehof held last fall at their Laurel Mill Lodge in Los Gatos. As a result of their popularity, the brunches are being reprised this spring on April 1 and April 22. The first of the series was held last week at the historic lumber mill and former children's camp just south of the Summit in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
The brunches are a "California casual," sit-down affair, featuring a range of omelettes, eggs Benedict, sourdough pancakes, waffles, pork loin and seared salmon, starting at $12.50 (no credit cards). A creative, kid-tested menu is available, along with a variety of side dishes. For guests desiring more than fruit juice, coffee and tea, it's a "bring your own champagne or whatever" affair, according to Kundus, who says the resort is not licensed to serve liquor.
Mountain resident Craig Ponkey is the chef who created the menu, replete with special sauces for the brunch series, under the auspices of his Rest-U-Want Catering. Since the Laurel Mill Lodge is primarily a retreat center and meeting facility, it does not offer a full-time restaurant, but brings in caterers to use its fully equipped commercial kitchen.
"We have little ambition to become a restaurant," says Kundus, who says he offers the brunches as the best way he knows to introduce more local folks to the lodge. "It's also a cool way to introduce people to Craig's catering company."
Ponkey, 38, is a 19-year veteran of both the Radisson and Marriott hotel kitchens, as well as the California Cafe, the San Jose Country Club and the Sea Cloud restaurant in Santa Cruz. He started his catering business partly to accommodate his mountain neighbors, who delight in having him as a local resource.
"I learned once that there is a difference between a cook and a chef," Kundus notes. "Esther and I are both pretty good cooks, but Craig is a chef."
The Laurel Mill Lodge is nestled along a creek deep in a canyon of redwoods. It offers dormitory-style and private cabins for weekend stays, or organized events. Campfires, hiking, creek-wading and hot-tubbing are some of the outdoor features. For colder days, the Lodge itself can accommodate up to 80 people in its great room with a 4-foot-high fireplace.
Kundus and Seehof bought the century-old place, which was in a run-down, pilfered condition, in 1990. The two have become home-repair experts through their years of restoration--the subject of a book in progress by Seehof and the fodder for humorous anecdotes written by Kundus in the Laurel Mill Messenger, a newsletter sent to neighbors, friends and guests.
The Sunday brunches, which nearly sold out last year, will be served by reservation only, between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Kundus says that time was chosen because sunshine is at its best on the large, umbrella-shaded kitchen deck.
"If the sun doesn't shine on brunch day," he says, "we'll just proceed to the great hall with a complimentary fire." Wear comfortable shoes, he adds, and check out the acres of trails after a leisurely meal.
Laurel Mill Lodge, 16770 Redwood Lodge Road, Los Gatos. Sunday Brunch on April 1 and 22. Call early for reservations and directions. 408.353.5851.
Saratoga, California Since 1955
