Spring is the time to plant many flowers, vegetables

By Tony Tomeo

Spring is the season when gardening is most rewarding. All the work and planting done last autumn and winter will begin to pay off. There is still much work to be done, however, to get the best performance from your garden.

What I like best about spring is planting vegetables. It is still too early for warm weather vegetables like peppers, eggplant and tomatoes, but they can be started in a greenhouse or indoors for planting in April. If seeded directly in the ground, they may be planted now; but slow growth will make them vulnerable to snails and birds. Beans, corn, cucumbers, squash and various greens should be planted as seed within the next three weeks. They grow more vigorously than the other vegetables, and it is not practical to start them as seedlings inside.

You can also plant a last set of cool-season crops such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and celery seedlings, as well plant seed for radishes, lettuce and chard. Remember to plant small groups of short-term producers, like corn, carrots and beets, every few weeks to ensure a steady supply of these vegetables.

Summer-blooming bulbs and perennials are also planted in spring. Bulbs include gladiolus, dahlias, callas and cannas. Like the short- term vegetables, bulbs may be planted in cycles to prolong the bloom cycle. Penstemon, Shasta daisy, coreopsis and stock are some of the perennials planted in spring.

In our area, both spring and summer annuals may be planted at the same time. Ageratum, cineraria, stock, snapdragon, nemesia, schizanthus, viola and pansy will perform well from the beginning. Marigold, lobelia and petunia will start to grow if planted now and will be ready to bloom as soon as the weather warms up.

This is also the season to plant woody ornamentals that were not planted in autumn or winter because of their sensitivity to cold. Citrus, avocado, hibiscus and bougainvillea should be planted as soon as the threat of frost is past. Plants that were damaged by frost last winter should also be pruned to remove the damaged growth; but only after new growth appears on undamaged stems. The new growth will show how far back to prune. Stems that do not exhibit new growth when the rest of the plant is active need to be removed. Some plants and perennials may need to be cut to the ground, in which case leave the roots and crown.

Pruning stimulates new growth; and the unfrozen root system will be disproportionately large for these plants that will come back with a vengeance as the weather warms. Unfortunately, a few plants may not recover. Also, some young citrus may have frozen below the graft union.

Even if foliage appears below the graft, the trees are not worth salvaging unless you intend to graft another cultivar back onto them. A common mistake is salvaging understock, which for almost all dwarf citrus grows into a coarse textured shrub with three-inch thorns and very large insipid fruit. I once had a client who wanted to know why her kumquat tree, since it froze in 1990, has been producing six-pound kumquats! Dwarf "Meyer" lemons and "Seville" sour oranges however, are not grafted, so any part of the tree that survives will eventually produce the intended fruit.

Another great feature of spring is all the events and garden shows and tours that cater to the interests of gardening enthusiasts. Many public gardens will soon be coming into their prime. I am anticipating the Open House at Bay Laurel Rhododendrons in Scotts Valley on April 10 and 24, and visiting with many of you there. For reservations, call (831) 438-3999.

Tree of the Week: Magnolia

There are many more magnolias available than I can write about. Of course, the most common are the evergreen Southern magnolias. These are used more for their very bold appearance than their large showy white flowers. The trees can get quite large, up to 40 feet, and prefer no crowding in their 20-foot spread. The foliage is coarse and drops constantly. Some gardeners love them; others hate them. I think they are great trees for my neighbors' yards.

Star magnolias are deciduous trees usually less than 20 feet tall and wide. They are available in only a few cultivars ranging in color only from white to pink or purple blushed white. They bloom profusely before foliation and are excellent specimen trees or large shrubs. The profuse flowers are more delicate and smaller than those of other magnolias, being only about four inches wide.

The most variable group of magnolia is the saucer magnolia, which comprises several deciduous species. All have very large bold flowers in profusion in the spring, some of which appear before foliage. Some trees stay under 15 feet, but others can be as large as the Southern magnolia.

Flowers range in color from white, pink, rosy purple to purplish red, with some rare yellow blooming cultivars. Flowers may be held upright without opening up all the way, but most are open wide or even floppy. This group has had many recent interesting introductions and because they are all so different, it is necessary to read labels carefully before purchasing these magnolias.

Magnolias require well-drained, moist soil. Endemic soil is somewhat heavier and more alkaline than magnolias prefer, so it is best to add a generous amount of organic matter when planting. Decidous magnolias prefer nitrogen fertilizer when established, but may be sensitive to salt burn. Acidifying fertilizer or even rhododendron fertilizer is ideal. Once established, magnolias thrive in our climate.

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Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 358-2574.

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