
Photograph by Kathy De La Torre
Kaffir lilies, most of which are in bloom now, are known for their bright orange flowers and long, glossy green leaves.
Spring is a good time to get vegetable gardens under way
By Tony Tomeo
The only time I do not thoroughly enjoy my work as a consulting horticulturist is when I need to compose reports in the office and the weather is excellent. In fact, if this column seems to be of inferior quality, it is likely because I can see over the top of the monitor and out a window into the garden. It is impossible to avoid distraction.
This last weekend, my neighbor and I worked in the vegetable garden. In the Santa Clara Valley, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage should have finished production by now. Although I have never been very successful with any of these vegetables planted this late, many garden enthusiasts plant a last phase of seedlings in early spring to exploit mild weather before summer heat.
Summer vegetables that may be sown directly into the soil include beans, cucumbers, corn, squash, beets, carrots and salad greens. Plants that only produce once, such as corn, beets and carrots, should be planted in small groups, in phases, to provide produce over a longer season.
Large groups planted at the same time may produce more than can be consumed, but only once. We normally plant beets in phases, but we also plant a large group for canning purposes.
Vegetables produced by many individual plants, such as corn, beets and salad greens, should always be sown as seed. Corn purchased in cell packs only provide six plants at nearly the cost of an envelope of seed. Because most gardens accommodate much more than six plants, several cell packs are necessary. A single envelope of seed, however, can be used for more than just the first phase of corn. Plants grown from seed also grow immediately, whereas seedlings take a few days to adjust to their new environment.
Eggplant, peppers and tomatoes may either be sown as seed or planted as seedlings. Because only a few plants of each are normally planted, purchasing seedlings in cell packs is quite practical. For example, an envelope of seed costs about the same or a bit more than six tomato seedlings in a cell pack, which is more than enough for an average garden. Not only does seed need to be grown into seedlings, but one envelope provides much more seed than necessary.
The only vegetable plant we acquire in a 4-inch pot is zucchini. This is because we only want one plant and have no use for the extra five plants of a cell pack. Because most vegetable plants grow like weeds, there is not much advantage to purchasing plants in 4-inch pots rather than cell packs.
Early spring is also a good time to plant summer bulbs and bulb-like plants. Calla, canna lily, gladiolus and dahlia planted now will bloom over the summer into autumn. Gladiolus may be planted in phases similarly to some of the vegetables to extend bloom.
Annual flowers suitable for early spring include pansy, viola, stock, ageratum, nemesia, schizanthus and cineraria. Lobelia, marigold, snapdragon and petunia planted now will last through the heat of summer.
Propagation by soft wood cutting is an easy technique for increasing the quantity of favorite plants. Cuttings should be terminal (branch tips) about 2 to 4 inches long. Chrysanthemums, carnations, fuchsias, ivy and marguerites root easily in moist perlite, sand or potting soil, particularly if a rooting hormone is used.
Cuttings of pelargoniums, including geraniums and ivy geraniums, should be left out of soil for a few days so that the cut ends dry. The dried ends are less likely to rot in moist rooting media. These three species need not be rooted in pots to be planted later, but may be rooted directly in the garden where new plants are desired.
Flower of the Week: Kaffir lily
When I was young, I thought these were orange agapanthus. The Kaffir lily, Clivia miniata, produces similar strap-shaped leaves and round clusters of flowers. The leaves are somewhat tougher and deeper green than those of agapanthus, and the flower stalks are somewhat shorter. Flowers usually appear in March and April, but may bloom as early as January. Some of the flowers in each cluster produce bright red berries.
Kaffir lilies prefer partly shady to brightly sunny locations, but not direct sun exposure. They can be damaged by frost, but may be protected if planted under larger plants or under eaves near a house or garage. Container-grown plants may be brought inside during cold weather and may stay until they have finished blooming. Most Kaffir lilies are bright orange, but some are bright reddish orange. Yellow Kaffir lilies are still somewhat rare and expensive.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo may be contacted at 408.358.2574.