Saratoga News

Photograph by George Sakkestad

Hannah Han, owner of The Movable Feast in Saratoga, serves a summer salad and tuna sandwich.

The 'Movable Feast' continues to inspire restaurant's owners

By Suzanne Cristallo

Ernest Hemingway viewed life as a celebration--A Moveable Feast--to be enjoyed to the fullest.

His autobiographical account by that title of his last years in Paris inspired the originators of a breakfast, lunch and "gourmet food to go" shop in Saratoga to name their business The Movable Feast nearly 13 years ago. In spite of changing hands four times since then, the small restaurant with the country look in the Quito Center has maintained the same spirit.

Owners Paul and Hannah Han took over in January. As newcomers both to the town and the business, they were heartened by the customers--many of them retired--who provided enthusiastic moral support and frequent patronage.

"They were like my parents, so full of encouragement," says Hannah, 39. "They even tell new customers about our bread."

The bread is whole wheat, made fresh each morning by Paul. It stands apart from conventional breads in size--each slice measures at least three quarters of an inch thick--and in taste and texture, with a subtle sweetness in the chewy freshness.

The breads--whole wheat, white, rye, sourdough, croissant or baguette--are the base for 14 sandwiches with intriguing names like The Czar's Choice, which consists of ham, jack cheese, red onions and sprouts with spicy Russian mustard. There's also The John Smith: turkey, cream cheese and made-on-the-premises spiced cranberry relish--according to folk tale, Smith was a fan of cranberries.

"Some customers told me they were afraid the food would be different," Hannah recalls of their opening. But she and Paul took great pains to maintain consistency, even down to slicing avocados at a specific angle on the California sandwich. Paul baked many practice loaves before he fine-tuned the whole wheat bread to just the right moistness.

At lunch time, customers line up three deep. "Everyone comes at once," says Hannah, who said a helper they hired at the beginning quit under the strain of the first few days. Hannah herself, of slender build and constantly on the move running the front of the place, lost 10 pounds in their first weeks of ownership.

The food is popular: 14 choices of salad from Bombay apple to tortellini with feta; 12 soups--two made each day by Hannah--and quiches of smoked cheddar and spinach, mushroom and bacon. Breakfasts include muffins, croissants and egg dishes.

The Hans are a "movable family" of sorts, originating in South Korea near Seoul, emigrating to San Jose, then to Colorado and back. Their experiences are varied. She was trained at Mission College as a memory-chip designer and worked in delis. Both ran several dry cleaning businesses. Presently, they overlap their hours at the store. Paul comes in at 6:30 a.m., leaving at 2 p.m to watch their two children. "Child care was extraordinarily expensive!" says Hannah, who stays until after closing at 5 p.m.

Maintaining the gourmet tradition was the first goal, but the Hans plan some additions to the menu. There will be California rolls and teriyaki chicken available soon.

The Movable Feast, 18818 Cox Ave., Saratoga. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-5 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m.-3 p.m. 379-6020.

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