Saratoga News

Photograph by George Sakkestad

Marie Tallman, general manager, samples the Mexican buffet at the Toll House.

A lighter continental cuisine reflects change at Toll House

By Suzanne Cristallo

The Toll House Restaurant in Los Gatos has gradually changed its look, its head chef, its menu and, most recently, its general manager since Pacific Valley Investment Company bought it in 1994.

Part of the Toll House Hotel at the end of S. Santa Cruz Avenue, the restaurant now features early-bird dinners, a Sunday brunch and lighter, continental cuisine.

"Everything is new, including me," says general manager Marie Tallman, who brings 21 years of hotel-management experience in the Virgin Islands and Southern California to "warm and welcoming" Los Gatos. She points to the cocktail lounge and dining rooms, which have discarded booths and vinyl for a "European boutique" decor; and to the center patio, which has been resurfaced and accented with lush plantings and bright outdoor furniture.

Catering to customer preferences for pasta, meat and more healthfully prepared fare, chef Jeff Lippold offers more steak, including a 10-ounce filet mignon inundated with portobello, porcini and oyster mushrooms, sauteed in burgundy wine sauce and wrapped in pancetta. Other meals include linguine and tortellini, rack of lamb and veal, fish and chicken dishes.

"We used to serve French food with lots of heavy cream sauces," says Lippold, who served as sous chef for two years at the Toll House before being offered the top chef position when the new owners came in. "Now we've shied away to the healthier side, cooking in olive oil with fresh herbs and port and chablis wines."

San Josean Lippold, 36, has been working in restaurants since he was 14, when he prepped food and washed dishes at the old Tiny Nalors Restaurant in Morgan Hill. Given a chance to cook at age 16, he has progressed through a series of large hotel chain kitchens, learning French, German, Italian and Polynesian styles of cooking along the way.

He offers 10 entrées on the early-bird dinner menu, stating, "There is lots of food for the money." The entrées served from 5 until 6:30 p.m. run about $8.95. The regular a la carte menu ranges from $16.95 to $24, with entrées accompanied by vegetables, saffron rice or garlic mashed potatoes and bread.

Tallman is particularly enthusiastic about the Sunday champagne brunch buffet, listing among its amenities the meat-carving and Belgian waffle stations, fresh prawns and scallops, omelettes made to order, smoked salmon, cream cheeses and bagels as well as the variety of baked goods, salads, freshly made crepes and cheese blintzes and the horde of "decadent desserts." The buffet price for adults is $17.95; children, $9.95.

Tallman comes to her new job in Los Gatos most recently from the Brentwood- Bel Air Holiday Inn, where "the theatrically oriented" gathered to relax.

"It's such a revelation to come to this area," she says with enthusiasm. "I took a walk down the street, and it was love at first sight. People are normal here--very open. In L.A., it's hard to get to know them."

Toll House Restaurant, 140 S. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos. Open for dinner Sun.- Thur, 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 5-10 p.m. Sunday brunch, 10 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Continental breakfast for hotel guests is available 6-9:30 a.m. 395-7070.

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