While Kinch and co-owner Aimee Herbert have retained ownership of Sent Sovi, which they opened in 1995, their focus is now centered on launching their new restaurant, Manresa, in Los Gatos. This leaves Deaton, 26, to carry on some Kinch traditions while creating some of his own.

Deaton took over in June after 2¹/2 years with Kinch. After an initial lull, caused in part by the lag in the economy and confusion on the part of some longtime customers who thought the restaurant had closed, Deaton says business is good. He's handled the transition well.

"When I first took over, it wasn't too difficult because it is a familiar environment," he says. "But the scary part was getting up to speed on our style and cooking techniques—getting the flavors right."

One of the Kinch techniques at the base of the Sent Sovi style is that of "building" the food. "You don't throw everything in at once," Deaton explains. "Ingredients are gradually added to the pan. A lot of care is taken this way to get a pretty and perfect product."

Three chefs assist Deaton: the garde manger (cold dishes) chef, the sous-chef (first assistant) and the pastry chef. They are able to accommodate up to 70 diners per evening in the small restaurant by staggering reservations from 5:50 through 8 p.m.

Of the five entrees they offer each evening, Deaton says, the halibut has "taken off." The firm white fish is roasted with eggplant and marinated with garlic and herbs. It's served with broccolini—a hybrid species of vegetable with strong-flavored spears—and sautéed sunchokes—also called Jerusalem artichokes—which are actually a variety of sunflower with a tuber resembling a ginger root. The tuber is peeled to reveal a hard, white flesh that, when cooked, becomes creamy and very aromatic.

"It took me awhile to warm up to it," Deaton says, laughing. "I couldn't figure out how to cook it right—I sautéed it and braised it, with skin and without—then finally got to where I could enjoy a plate of it. The flavors work well and are aesthetically pleasing with the halibut. It's served with a red pepper puree and brown butter sauce." The dish sells for $24. The restaurant's entrees typically range in price from $23 to $28.

Among the seven appetizers on the menu, a new one this week is paté en terrine, a dish made of duck foie gras—a paté made from duck liver—and duck confit. In a confit the meat is allowed to simmer very slowly in fat until it is tender and the richness of the fat has been infused into the meat.

Deaton recommends the foie gras with salad greens and huckleberries. The greens are fresh from Dirty Girl Farm in Santa Cruz and picked up by Deaton on his commute to work from his Santa Cruz home. He likes to stop by the 1¹/2-acre farm because it keeps him "in touch." He says, "I like the people, and it gives me a chance to hang out."

A grand finale might be some crème brûlée infused with honey and vanilla, or a plate of cheese. "The California cheese industry is so big right now," Deaton notes, "and here it's spectacular!"

Sent Sovi, 14583 Big Basin Way in Saratoga, is open Wednesday through Saturday, 5:30 to 9 p.m., and Sundays, 5 to 9 p.m. For more information, call 408.867.3110.