Andrew Welch, now a partner with original backers John and Erica Mittlehauser, says he was originally hired as a consultant on a short-term basis to "improve the place." That was more than three years ago. He's since made the improvements and liked them so much that he and his wife, Berit, became part owners.

What's different?

"It started as a sports bar/comfort food place," Welch says. He's done away with the meat loaf and now offers American fare with heavy Spanish and Italian influences. The Spanish connection can be seen in the featured janon serrano—the southwestern European version of the Italian prosciutto ... namely, ham—which is presented as a "Spanish plate" appetizer accompanied by Spanish olives, manchego (cheese made from sheep's milk), Spanish white anchovies and roasted garlic ($13).

Welch is not only a part owner; he's managing the place with Berit, who organizes the back of the house. He also designs the dishes, which new chef Alejandro Perez executes, but not until he first seeks the input of both staff and regular customers.

"Last night is a good example," he says. "We all sat down with the football game on and sampled a variety of dishes."

One of the winning entrees, which found a place on this month's menu, is a boneless rib eye steak ($28) and an appetizer of barbecued oysters ($11).

Another favorite entrée is the New Zealand grouper—a big fish with a lean, firm flesh suitable for steaks and filets. Welch says he coats the filets in a half-and-half mixture of Japanese rice crumbs and dried coconut, finely ground. The fish is then pan-roasted with a fragrant basmati rice flavored with mandarin oranges and arugula. It's served with browned butter and toasted macademia nuts with a touch of lemon ($26). "The browned butter comes out frothy and is enhanced by the macademia nut," Welch says. "It has a nice toasty, rich flavor."

Entrees run in the range of $14 to $29 a la carte. "They're nice portions," Welch notes. He suggests that diners wishing to have a variety of tastes split their entrees or share half portions of pasta. "We're happy to do that so folks can have more enjoyment out of their dining."

Since the menu changes often, research is ongoing. "We just spent a month and a half consulting with a good ol' Louisiana boy who gave his ideas on the perfect gumbo," Welch chuckles. The result is a popular crab and gulf prawn gumbo with basmati rice and crispy fried leeks ($25). "The key is we season it in four layers," he says. "It results in an incredible layering of flavors, not just a hot spiciness."

Welch says he's anxious to make The Basin a family place, with less emphasis on the bar that originally took up a good portion of the floor space with high bar tables. While the bar is still full service and features wines from "every wine-producing country in the world," the emphasis is now on dining "either in a suit or Levis," Welch stresses. As a result, children are catered to with dishes designed on the spot according to their tastes—like the macaroni and cheese, or individually designed pizzas or maybe just some pasta and butter.

The Welches live in Saratoga, and the Mittlehausers just moved from there to Los Gatos. Welch says John should be familiar to computer buffs. He's one of the eight founders of Netscape and also is the designer of that little gizmo familiar to all computer users—the little pointing hand.

The Basin is located at 14572 Big Basin Way (corner of Fifth) in Saratoga. For more information, call 408.867.1906 or visit www.thebasin.com.