Ficus is an interesting genus that is not nearly as common in the Santa Clara Valley as it is in coastal Southern California. Several species that are grown as houseplants here are used in landscapes there. Without damaging frosts, even the more tropical species grow into mid-sized trees. Some are even popular street trees. Creeping fig, which grows on some local freeway soundwalls, is much more common among Southern California freeways and climbs some of the interchanges.
The strangest ficus tree I have seen in Southern California grows at the foundation of the former residence of James Dean. It is actually quite homely. The large, thin leaves are covered with orange fuzz. Hard green figs develop at the distended base of the trunk. My colleague (you can guess whom) with his boyhood friends enjoyed throwing the figs at cars on Olympic Boulevard.
Fruiting figs, my favorite ficus, fortunately perform very well in the Santa Clara Valley. They are deciduous and therefore do not mind cool winter weather. Unlike ornamental ficus, fruiting figs should be pruned during winter dormancy like other deciduous fruit trees. Because of unseasonably warm weather this winter, figs that are to be pruned should have had the work done already. Late pruning can damage trees that have resumed vascular activity and become foliated.
Healthy figs produce two types of fruit. Summer figs emerge with new foliage during spring from stems that grew during the previous summer. They are not so profuse but are larger and softer than later figs. After the first figs have abscised, autumn figs appear at axillary buds, above where leaves originate. These figs typically ripen just prior to defoliation during autumn. They are more profuse but are smaller and chewier. Summer figs are best for eating fresh. Autumn figs are best for canning or drying.
If more summer figs are preferred, pruning should be as minimal as practical to preserve stems that grew during the previous summer. Not many will develop on stems more than a year old. Of course, some pruning is necessary to maintain the shape and structure of healthy trees.
Summer figs are unfortunately not always reliable. Even the most productive trees may experience environmental or cultural discomforts that may cause premature abscission of most or all summer figs. Some trees may not produce any summer figs for many years.
Autumn figs develop regardless of the extent of pruning but can be maximized by inhibiting development of summer figs with severe pruning. I actually pollard my Black Mission fig tree, which consequently produces copious figs only once each autumn. The Brown Turkey fig at the nursery does not get pruned and is a gnarly mess but produces two phases of excellent figs.
Flower of the Week: Lilac Vine
Foliage of the lilac vine, Hardenbergia comptoniana, is pinnately compound. Each leaf is composed of three, four or five leaflets attached to a central rachis or "stem." Foliage of the less common Hardenbergia violacea (or H. monophylla) is also considered to be pinnately compound, but almost every individual leaf is composed of a single 3-inch-long leaflet. I really do not know why such foliage is classified as compound or even how to determine where the petiole (leaf stem) ends and the rachis begins. Do single leaflets even have a rachis?
Hardenbergia is much more complaisant than most climbing vines. It only grows to approximately 8 feet high, and it may take considerable time to get there. It is supported by delicate twining stems. The profuse trusses of small flowers that appear in winter or early spring resemble those of wisteria but are not as large or pendulous. The flowers of H. comptoniana are deep purple. The flowers of H. violacea are most commonly pink but may be rose, purple, pale purple or white.
Soil should drain well. Saturation easily rots the fibrous roots. Full exposure to sunlight is preferred. Partial shade is tolerated but will diminish bloom. Established vines may be pruned somewhat severely after bloom to limit accumulation of thicket-like growth.
Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be
contacted at 408-358-2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.
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