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A surprise is awaiting fans of Chinese cuisine. For those unaware of the small, inconspicuous restaurant on De Anza Boulevard, Oriental Gourmet and owner Cindy Chung are eager to welcome you. Hidden behind the Bank of America at Saratoga's border at Prospect Road, the plain, almost homely storefront suggests nothing of the cool haven inside. Green carpeting and soft green walls, lattice dividers, sparkling lights and soothing piano music create an atmosphere for concentrating on taste. First-timers who might not know what to order beyond the old stand-bys chow mein or fried rice need only ask Cindy.
"Cindy tells us what to eat. We like that," says regular customer Tien Wu of Cupertino, who comes at least once a week with his wife, Fen. "When I don't have a good appetite—like after I've been traveling—I come here, because Cindy will bring it back." On this particular day, Cindy has suggested a stir-fry with beef and mustard greens, accompanied by the couple's favorite, hot and sour soup ($5.95).
"I always tell customers what is good and fresh today," Cindy says, explaining with a laugh, "I want to keep my good reputation!"
Cindy has been managing the restaurant since 1997, long enough to develop a host of regulars and friends. Her words are interrupted with the arrival of familiar customers. "Hi, there! For here or to go?" she asks, without missing a beat, of Saratogans Martha and Bill Thomas. "The usual?"
The "usual" is cashew chicken, one of their favorites. "We've been getting it for years," Bill says. The chicken is sauteed with brown sauce, fresh celery, mushrooms, onions and zucchini, then stir-fried with garlic and cashew nuts ($6.95).
Most of Cindy's customers are Saratogans. Lately, many have been ordering take-out instead of sit-down lunches and dinners. "The war, the economy and fear of SARS [a respiratory virus] seems to be affecting people's going out," she surmises. But customers still stream through, taking home favorites like Mongolian beef ($7.50) and chicken with tangerines or ginger.
Cindy, born in Taiwan, came to the San Jose area in 1986. She worked a variety of jobs—"some I can't even remember"—until 11/2 years with Mandarin Gourmet in Palo Alto convinced her that the restaurant business was for her. "Everybody says, 'Cindy, you need to be a go-go girl' because I can't stay at home," she laughs. Her husband, Thomas, has his own construction business, while Oriental Gourmet is hers. Her sons—Danny, 22, a recent graduate of UC-Irvine, who majored in drama, and William, 20, a student in psychology and pre-law at UC-Santa Cruz—also take no part in her business, except William, "occasionally when he needs money," she laughs.
The family knows there is no time for Cindy to cook at home, so the restaurant is where they enjoy dinner. "I like noodle soup, and my husband eats tofu," she notes.
The menu is simple and emphasizes fresh ingredients. "Our food's not greasy," Cindy emphasizes. Beyond the basic categories of fish, poultry, beef and pork is moo shoo, stir-fried dishes containing shredded pork, chicken, beef, vegetable or prawns with Tiger Lily Buds, Wood Ears and various seasonings, scrambled with eggs, then rolled in small, thin pancakes ($7.50, prawns $8.50). "It's fun, this kind of business," Cindy muses. "You make lots of friends." Good food helps.
Oriental Gourmet, located at 1646 S. De Anza Blvd., at the corner of Prospect Avenue in San Jose, is open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.2:30 p.m., and dinner Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 59:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 511 p.m. The restaurant is closed Tuesdays. For more information, call 408.253.2345.
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Photograph by George Sakkestad