New executive chef Brent Pollock is attracting brunch fans with favorite dishes dressed up in new ways, like the fresh fruit "martini"—an assortment of melons, berries or whatever is in season, served in a martini glass ($4.75). Another version in the stemmed glass is the prawn cocktail ($8.75), made with prawns big enough to number just 15 to a pound, covered in a caper cocktail sauce with lemon.

Pollock also knows the right way to make banana Belgian waffles, as some seasoned eaters will attest, with the bananas folded into the batter to create a creamy texture, not just sliced on top. The waffles are made on special waffle makers with large, deep grids that create roomy pockets to catch the mango syrup. Some crisp, smoked applewood bacon comes on the side ($8.75).

Pollock's eggs Benedict are served on house-made red onion scones with Hollandaise sauce and come with café potatoes sauteed with red peppers ($11.25). In a similar vein, the very popular Eggs Los Gatos—poached and covered with a bearnaise sauce—are served over Dungeness crab and potato croquettes that are breaded and deep-fried for crispness ($14.75).

Special drinks for the mid-day repast include the Strawberry Bellini—champagne with an essence of strawberry for $6—or the champagne "Mint Julep," served in a flute with fresh mint.

Pollock, "about 36," came to California Café nearly three months ago from Zibbibo restaurant in Palo Alto (which also owns Lulu in San Francisco). Before that, he served as executive chef for Gordon Biersch microbrewery, also in San Francisco. He lives in Half Moon Bay with his wife and young son.

Aknin says Pollock brings a new, Mediterranean taste to the California Café with a menu that will change with the seasons. "On June 21, for instance, the summer menu will probably come out with new salad creations, such as watermelon with feta (cheese), kalamata olives and mint, dressed in an orange blossom vinaigrette," notes Aknin. There also will be a double-cut pork chop for $18.25. "We're really conscious of keeping our prices down."

Pollock's food is "fresh, seasonal and California. That's a big canvas to work with," he adds. "You won't find lamb shanks or butternut squash in mid-summer."

The Los Gatos California Café is one of five other Cafés owned by Corte Madera-based Constellation Concepts Inc. It is housed in a building that once was a school. The building—today known as Old Town—was closed for repair and renovation after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. The restaurant didn't reopen until October, 1998, when Aknin, 40, an employee before the earthquake, returned as its general manager. A native of the Peninsula, he lives in San Jose.

California Café, in Old Town at 50 University Ave. in Los Gatos, is open for lunch and dinner daily. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.­2:30 p.m. Call 408.354.8118 for reservations, 408.354.8300 for banquet facilities or visit www.constellationconcepts.com.