July 2, 2003     Saratoga, California Since 1955
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Photograph by Cara Finn
Bill Ballentine works with Andy and Pamela Simpson to create a zinfandel under the label 'S.E. Chase.' The label's name honors Sarah Hayne, a Simpson relative.
S.E. Chase Family Vineyards' longevity produces rich wines
By Cara Finn
Sarah Esther Chase was a mere teenager when she made her way from the East Coast to San Francisco in the early 1800s to marry Mister Bourne, a man twice her age.

It was a time of technological boom, with the shipping and rail industries changing forever the way business was conducted. And Bourne was at the center of it all, seeing San Francisco—at the time a small seaboard town—for the international city it would become. San Francisco just needed a shipyard and manufacturing, enterprises that he knew well. In a few brief years, Bourne owned most of Post Street and was at the center of the expansion.

Years later, when Sarah found herself a well-taken-care-of widow in the 1870s, her dream was to retire to the quiet town of St. Helena in Napa Valley and live her life in peace. Her daughter, Maude, married William Alston Hayne and they planted a vineyard on Sarah's property. The land seemed well-suited for a vineyard, and the couple planted mostly zinfandel, nearly 100 acres.

As is often the case, the exact date of the long-ago vineyard planting is hazy. But without a doubt, the zinfandel vines will mark their centennial sometime within the next few years.

Zinfandel, unlike many wine grape varieties, is valued for its longevity, with the hundred-year mark making them extra valuable. The vines of the Hayne vineyard, with their deep root system and thick, massive trunks, need little to no irrigation. Their annual yield is upwards of two tons per acre, which is on par with the best Napa offers.

To walk in the vineyard is like a step back in time—the old vines are gnarled and low to the ground, more like bushes than modern vines, and there are no trellis systems to support the branches. The grapes before harvest weigh down the vines and they droop to the ground, just as they did in Sarah's day.

The Hayne vineyard has been the source of many award-winning zinfandels (including Turley's "Hayne Vineyard" zinfandel).

In 1998, Andy Simpson—four generations removed from Sarah—and his wife, Pamela, decided to make winemaking their livelihood instead of exclusively selling the fruit. They are working with winemaker Bill Ballentine to create a magnificent zinfandel under a label dedicated to the remembrance of Sarah, called "S.E. Chase." The vineyard is lovingly managed by Simpson, who is Ballentine's and William Alston Hayne III's 80-year-old cousin and a former mayor of St. Helena.

Now in its third vintage, S.E. Chase has garnered a well-deserved loyal following, and with less than 1,200 cases in the 2000 zinfandel production, it seems that few zinfandel lovers will be able to get their hands on all they want.

The 2000 release is bold, juicy and full of super-extracted fruit. Cherries, blackberries, raspberries and chocolate burst forward into a velvety blend of flavors, intense and silky at the same time.

The Simpsons and Ballentine represent a growing and passionate group of winemakers dedicated to small production, what is commonly referred to as "boutique." But unlike some "boutique" wineries that are just waiting for their chance to be the next "cult" wine with the 90-plus score, the Simpsons and Ballentine are honoring a heritage of winemaking in the Napa Valley that goes back generations—making excellent, affordable and delicious wine.

You can enjoy or purchase the S.E. Chase Family Vineyards zinfandel at many establishments in the Bay area, including Le Papillion in Saratoga, Village Cafe in Santana Row, the Wine Rack wine store in Saratoga, The Grapevine wine store in Willow Glen and Joseph George wine store in Willow Glen.

Cara Finn is the owner of The Grapevine, a fine wine and cheese store and tasting bar. She can be reached at 408.293.7574 or at info@grapevine-wg.com.

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