In the mid-1990s most of us wouldn't be caught dead trying to find a deal on a restaurant wine list. Now, however, getting a deal is the name of the game. When a professional wine buyer sits down to dinner at a great restaurant and peruses the wine list, she can spot the deals in a New York minute. Every wine list has some gems on it that often are half the average price of the list and provide great value for the diner.

Recently I was dining at The French Laundry in Napa, and I was pleased to see that even though their wine list was extensive and expensive, there were several selections that were priced for the mere mortal. My favorite value wine on their list was a charming Bruno Claire pinot noir from Marsannay, France. A deal at under $40, when most of the wines on the list were in the triple digits.

Next time you dine out, take a moment or two to search out the values on the wine list. An extra minute or so could save you the price of dessert. Here are some tips:

If you're in the mood to pick the brain of your favorite restaurant's wine buyer, ask him for recommendations in a certain price category. For instance, if most of the wines on their list are priced at $40 and above, ask for his suggestion in the under-$30 category. He should be able to point out at least a few contenders. Asking about the "unknown gems" on the list should also provide fodder for a lively conversation about wine values.

When looking for a white wine, instead of ordering the big label chardonnay next time you are out, look for an Oregon Pinot Gris; the flavors of ripe pear and apple with a touch of oak will match well to classic chardonnay fare. If the list has French wines, look for a Rully from the Burgundy valley in France. Rully is a chardonnay that is often incredibly value priced and is reminiscent of a lighter-bodied California chardonnay. In hot weather, nothing beats a cold German Riesling. Look for a Kabinett or Spatlese and ask the server if it is sweet, dry or in between (note that even a sweet German Riesling is not nearly as sweet as a California Riesling). A touch of sweetness is just the ticket when matching wine to slightly spicy dishes.

Red-wine values may take a bit more searching, but if the wines on the list come from farther than just California, chances are strong that you will find a prize or two. If their Italian wine selection has more than Chianti, look for a Rosso di Montalcino. "Rosso" refers to the common red table wines of a particular area or town and are often medium-bodied, tasty wines at a terrific price. Another Italian gem is Barbera d'Alba. Again, a common red table wine from the township of Alba that is bursting with ripe fruit flavors. For something a little different, see if they have a Valpolicella Supieriore Ripassa. A delightful wine that has a slight raisiny aroma, big dark fruit flavors and matches quite nicely to all sorts of gamy meats.

If merlot is your wine of choice, see if you can find a selection from the Cote du Rhone. The Rhone region in France produces some of the finest wines in the world, and the Cote du Rhones are the common red wine of the area. They are generally a blend of mostly Syrah and Grenache, are medium-bodied with a smooth finish and match well to most meat dishes (especially lamb). Cote du Rhones appeal to many merlot drinkers.

Don't get the impression that all the deals on a wine list are from beyond California, but finding California deals is a bit more work. When searching for these gems, look beyond the brand name and focus on the region and vintage. Lately, the Central Coast has been showing a number of great values in whites and lighter-bodied reds.

Pinot noir has become very fashionably expensive these days, but there are still values out there. My favorites include selections from California's Edna Valley or Burgundy from Santenay, France. Bourgogne Rouge and Savigny le Beaune also offer reasonably priced pinot noir that is often juicy and ready to drink.

Have you noticed a pattern here? Many of the great deals in wine are the common table wines from a particular area. In the European system of wine labeling they're easy to spot because they're labeled as such. These common wines are fashioned to be relatively inexpensive. When the great wines of a particular region are outstanding, the common wines tend to be pretty darn good, too.

In our labeling system, the grape type (chardonnay, cabernet, merlot, and so on), the region (Napa, Oregon, Carneros, and so on) and the winery brand are the main pieces of information on a label. The only clue to quality is often the price, and we have learned that can be deceiving. These days many high-end California wineries that also produce less-expensive, common table wines have adopted a "second label" practice, which can give you a clue if you know which second label belongs to whom. This is research that you can do in advance of your dining-out experience.

Experiment a little and you'll likely to find some new favorites. If you're looking for a great deal and a huge incentive to explore the wine and dining world, seek out a restaurant that offers a discount on their wine list on certain days. For instance, Tapestry Bistro in Los Gatos offers all their wines at half price every Monday, which is a great incentive to explore their wine list.

Finding a deal, whether it's your new Jaguar on eBay or a bottle of wine that delivers more than you expect from the price, has become very fashionable and is not likely to go out of style too soon.

Cara Finn is the owner of The Grapevine, a fine wine and cheese store and tasting bar. She can be reached at 408.293.7574 or at info@grapevine-wg.com.