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Mark and Shekoh Ainsworth have owned Gervais Restaurant Français in Saratoga for five months. He runs the front of the house and creates the pastries. She runs the kitchen and creates the menu. What they do is not arbitrary. They have been asking for precise feedback from their customers about their tastes. They're also striving to increase their rating with groups like Zagat magazine, Mobil's star rating and Triple A's diamond rating services.
The French eatery on Big Basin Way has a long history, first as Le Mouton Noir, which operated for decades in the spot, and then about a year ago as Gervais, which was brought from San Jose, after operating there for 19 years, by Louis Darosa. He moved back to Felton where his other restaurant, The Trout Farm, is occupying his time.
With the new owners, Gervais already has a different feel to it. A new pastel color scheme and new art lightens and brightens. And chef Shekoh is offering—in addition to the regular menu with house specialties like rack of lamb and bouillabaisse—a prix fixe weekly menu from which diners may select up to five courses and the wine to pair with them. This week's selections, for example, include autumn vegetable paella (rice with meats and shellfish); butternut squash bisque (rich soup with cream); seared Chilean sea bass; olive and tomato-flavored gnocchi (Italian "dumplings") in tomato broth; and quail stuffed with foie gras (duck liver) and brioche (butter and egg yeast bread). Three courses run $39 (with wine, $55); $75 for four courses with wine; and $95 for five courses with wine. There has been an upsurge in business.
"Last Saturday night we had to stop taking reservations," Mark says, referring to a crowd larger than their cozy facility could handle. He sees this as a bellwether for the economy. "There are good signs that things are on the rebound." The menu is a big factor.
"My wife and I try to create a variety [of dishes]. The tasting menu is where we experiment ... we like to mix hot and cold and sweet and sour to get all of the senses going," Mark says.
Mark's talent is in the desserts, like the Grand Marnier or chocolate souffles. His ice creams are made fresh with each order. Among the not sweet, or savory, variety is his black truffle ice cream that accompanies quail baked in a puff pastry.
Zagat magazine has rated Gervais with a score of 22. Mark says ratings in the 20s are good to excellent. He notes that San Francisco's five-star-, five-diamond-rated Ritz Carlton Hotel has a score of 28. "Our décor held us back on this rating, so we took down all of the wallpaper and dark art and lightened it up," he says. Star ratings are given by Mobil Oil Company, and diamond ratings come from Triple A. While Gervais has not yet been rated by them, Mark admits they're important. While local customers are a mainstay, attracting out-of-towners to a restaurant can depend on ratings, and service makes up a good part of those.
"A good server earns over $100 in tips alone a day, and attracting a good server is a priority," he says. "A good server remembers the names and preferences of regulars, gives lots of attention to the table and assures the timely arrival of food."
Gervais Restaurant Français, located at 14560 Big Basin Way in Saratoga, is open for dinner TuesdayThursday, 5:309 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 5:3010 p.m.—closed Sunday and Monday. There are group luncheons by special arrangement, and cooking classes Sundays, 11 a.m.3 p.m., that are open to public. Call 408.867.7017.
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Photograph by George Sakkestad