"We have a different approach to running a restaurant and what we put on our menu," Andrew says of the business he and Berit have solely owned for the past year. "We don't just take the word of our executive chef," he grins, referring to himself. "There are up to 10 front-of-the-house staff who have a say."

The Welches bought out two other partners last year. They've made "100-percent" changes, not only in the menu, but in the atmosphere of the Basin, located at the south end of Big Basin Way in the Saratoga Village. The Alcohol Beverage Control sign in the window merely reflects the rearranged ownership.

"We're still the same folks running the place who have been for the past five years. But now we have a classic bistro style," Andrew says. Originally, the bar was emphasized, with high tables and stools. Now tables are low and sport cream-colored marble tops. In the dining room, mahogany tables with ash inlay have been added.

While the emphasis may be different, bartender Michael Meck still provides a range of drinks from imported European wines to a full range of mixed drinks. Andrew swears that Meck's martinis taste better than any others. He says it has to do with the made-from-scratch sweet and sour Meck uses where most other bars buy a bottled mix. Meck squeezes fresh lime and lemon juices and blends them with a simple sugar to bring flavor to a dozen or more martini drinks, like the popular Houdini, for example. But Andrew claims there's more pizzazz to it beyond taste.

"Meck was a professional food stylist in Los Angeles. He was the person who arranged food to look luscious for food photographers," he says, suggesting that Meck's skill with food has carried over to his presentation of drinks. It's evident in the flourish he gives to the distinctive martini glasses with wide tops and elegantly tapered stems when he serves, or in the cheese collection he offers to accompany drinks. As a result, "Some folks like to just sip and sup on the cheeses," Andrew says.

The new menu is described as "American fare with heavy Italian and Spanish influences." However, Andrew does recommend a classic French dish prepared by chef Alejandro Perez—the coq au vin. Composed of pieces of chicken, it is flamed with brandy and braised with red wine, organic cipollini ("wild" onions), sweet Italian pancetta (bacon) and fresh thyme and bay leaf ($21).

The roasted fresh breast of rabbit is what is typically Spanish. The rabbit is seared and roasted with tarragon, dried plums and jamon serrano (seasoned, salt-cured Spanish ham) and served with black truffle mashed potatoes ($27). "Our plates are substantial," Andrew says. "We encourage people to split orders."

The Italian influence is evident in the wild mushroom rigatoni. "This is a great time of year for mushrooms," Andrew notes, with relish. The "wild" mushrooms are actually farm-raised, with up to 10 different varieties. They range from chanterelle (yellow or orange and trumpet-shaped with a nutty flavor and chewy texture) to porcino (pale brown, measuring up to 10 inches in diameter and weighing up to a pound, with a pungent, woodsy flavor and meaty texture). Andrew says his "always fresh" mushrooms and produce come from Happy Boy Farms.

On Saturdays, he personally picks out his fruit and vegetables from the farm that sets up a booth at the Saratoga Farmer's Market located at the high school.

The Basin, at 14572 Big Basin Way in Saratoga, is open daily
5­11 p.m. "or so." Call 408.867.1906, or visit http://www.thebasin.com.