January 28, 2004     Saratoga, California Since 1955
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Anthuriums are tropical plants that need warmth and frequent mistings if not grown in greenhouses. The heart-shaped spathe varies in color; the spadix (floral spike) is often yellow, but some species exhibit other colors.
Winter pruning an important procedure, and don't be late
By Tony Tomeo
Tony TomeoI do not think I have ever neglected to discuss winter pruning of deciduous fruit trees until so late in winter. This is a very important procedure that may be performed as late as floral buds remain dormant, or as early as foliar color yellows on subject trees. Some garden enthusiasts with many trees prefer to begin pruning during late summer as the trees begin dormancy but have not yet defoliated, to get an early start and ensure that the last of the trees are finished prior to resumption of vascular activity in early spring or late winter. Pruning after bloom is actually more detrimental to the health of a subject tree than neglecting to prune altogether.

Each type of fruit tree has specific pruning requirements, and of course every specimen has unique issues. Apples and pears are somewhat similar in this regard, as are those within the group known as the "stone fruits." The various species within the genus Prunus are known as stone fruit because they all have a large stone or pit at the center of their respective fruit; they include peach, nectarine, plum, prune, cherry, apricot, almond and all the weird hybrids among some of these. Almonds are not actually grown for their "fruit," which is the hull that is shed from the nut or "stone" at the center.

Because winter pruning of fruit trees is so specialized, it might require some research and study; it is definitely something garden enthusiasts should be aware of before installing deciduous fruit trees. Remember this, as bare-root material is now available. Without proper pruning, structural integrity may be compromised by the weight of excessive fruit. Pruning also helps to concentrate resources into fewer but superior fruit as well as concentrate subsequent vegetative growth among fewer but more vigorous stems that can grow faster than pathogens can keep up with.

Incidentally, Denny West, the artist in Denver who creates my favorite garden sculpture, now has his own website at www.23rdave.com. Although I have very discriminating taste and find most garden sculpture to be objectionable (even some of West's pieces are a bit too exotic for my taste), this site exhibits some unique work that even I appreciate.

Flower of the Week: Anthurium

Anthurium andraeanum has never been a common cut flower, but is more often seen in florist shops than the plants that produce them or any of the esoteric species of anthurium that are grown as houseplants or in backyard greenhouses. However, a small anthurium I am not familiar with, which blooms with small brick red flowers, is becoming popular as a houseplant. Related Mauna Loa "lilies" bloom with relatively insipid white flowers, but produce profuse glossy green foliage.

Although native to jungles of Central and South America, most garden enthusiasts associate anthurium with Hawaii, where they are quite happy with the warm and humid climate. They can be grown in greenhouses or even as houseplants within the Santa Clara Valley, but certainly demand attention to their discriminating cultural preferences. Substantial humidity is appreciated, and foliage may be damaged if humidity is less than 50 percent for more than a week. Bright ambient sunlight promotes bloom, but direct exposure to sunlight will cause foliar burn.

Anthuriums are more vascularly active when warmer than 80 degrees, and are essentially dormant if cooler than 65 degrees. They may be damaged if they become cooler than 50 degrees. Blooming specimens may be brought indoors if eventually returned to the warmer, more humid greenhouse to rejuvenate. Potting media should drain very well, and dilute soluble fertilizer should be applied every month.

Anthurium andraeanum produces glossy dark green leaves about a foot long and half as wide. A single bright white, pink, red or pinkish red spathe (bract) that may be as long as 6 inches frames each spadix (inflorescence), which is usually yellow. Each plant only produces less than six flowers annually, but each flower lasts about a month and a half.

Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408.358.2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.

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