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0646 | Wednesday, November 8, 2006

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Saratoga's Paul Conrado climbs to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro

By Shannon Burkey

"No matter what happens in life, they can't take your memories away from you." you

Those were the words going through the mind of Saratoga resident Paul Conrado as he prepared for the journey of a lifetime--the ascent of the world's highest freestanding mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.

It was a trip that Conrado, his wife, 21-year-old daughter and 23-year-old son had been planning for awhile. The entire family has always been into adventure trips, Conrado says, but this was an adventure trip like no other.

"I think I did it for the challenge and to say I did it," Conrado says. "It is something I will never forget and something I will never do again."

As the family set off for Africa, there was a lot of excitement and anticipation. But two hours before he was set to leave, Conrado learned his close friend, Joan Pisani, had just been diagnosed with cancer. The news hit him hard, but climbing Kilimanjaro became even more important to him at that moment.

"I dedicated the climb to her," Conrado says, "and no matter how hard it got, I had to make it for her."

Each year 25,000 people attempt to make it to the summit of Kilimanjaro, but only 3,000 succeed. On Aug. 9, Conrado and his family began their attempt to become part of the 3,000.

Thirty-five hours after leaving Saratoga, the family reached the starting point of the climb, which is at an elevation of 6,590 feet. They waited there to meet their guides, porters and another couple--coincidentally from Santa Cruz--who were a part of their party. Then their journey began.

Seventeen porters, three guides, two cooks and seven guests made up the party going up the mountain. The porters were responsible for carrying the group's packs and equipment and would travel ahead of the group to base camp to have everything set up when they arrived.

The first day's hike would seem light compared to what the family had ahead of them. They hiked for three hours through the rain forest and gained 2,400 feet in elevation before arriving at their first base camp.

It was at this first base camp that the first injury occurred; Conrado tripped and dislocated his finger. That could have ended his trip then and there, but there was a doctor in the group who was able to put his finger back into place and tape it so that he could continue.

Over the first three days, the group gained 9,530 feet in elevation.

"It was a brutal, nonstop uphill hike," Conrado says.

By day three, Conrado's feet were starting to tingle and he had to duct tape his boots, which were starting to come apart. But these were minor annoyances compared to the feeling of being in the place the group had finally reached.

At 14,970 feet, with Kilimanjaro in the background, the goal they were trying to accomplish was quickly becoming a reality.

"It is a beautiful place. Very few people come here," Conrado says.

With the toughest two days still ahead of them, the family took some time to unwind at the third base camp. Despite a language barrier, they started a rock bocce ball game with their porters.

"This was probably the highest bocce ball game ever played," Conrado says.

Day four was a big day filled with anticipation--the day the group would start up Kilimanjaro. They climbed for 4 1/2 hours to an elevation of 15,460 feet, reaching their final base camp before their ascent to the summit.

"As you walk across the saddle, you are looking at the mountain the entire time. It is very intimidating," Conrado says.

They made base camp by 1:30 p.m. and planned to leave for the summit at 11 p.m., so sleep and food were all the group members wanted before making the final leg of their journey.

Unable to eat and sleep for only four hours, Conrado decided to shave so that he would "look good on the big day."

With the altitude starting to affect them, the group members were moving at a slow pace when they woke up for their climb to the summit. Conrado said it took him an hour to dress and roll up his sleeping bag, a task that previously took a very short time to complete.

Finally, day five--summit day--had arrived. The group set off at midnight for the near eight-hour climb to the summit, armed with headlamps and dressed for the 17-degree weather. They moved at a slow pace as they started going straight up the mountain, Conrado says.

"You never look up. I only looked up three times in six hours because it is depressing. You are not getting any closer," Conrado says. "You just watch your feet in front of you and go to your happy place."

At 17,200 feet, one member of the party became sick and had to turn back, but the rest of the group continued slowly on.

For Conrado, the final part of the journey was the most emotionally and physically exhausting, he says. Even taking deep breaths was difficult for him.

"I wanted to quit 100 times, but I knew I had to do it for Joan," Conrado says. "I just kept telling myself that I could do it, one step at a time."

At 18,600 feet, the group reached Gillman's Point, the last hurdle before the summit, and Conrado says, "I started crying uncontrollably for 10 minutes. I never thought I would make it."

There were still 800 feet to go before the group could have "tea at 19,000 feet."

At 8:40 a.m. on day five Conrado reached Uhuru Peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro's summit.

"I remember breaking down at the top. For six hours I really thought I would not make it," Conrado says, "and I would not have made it if I hadn't made that promise to myself to do it for Joan."

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is an experience that not many people will ever have and something Conrado says he will always remember. Though he says he will never go back to Kilimanjaro, this trip is something that no one can ever take away from him.

"I learned that I can do anything I put my mind to," Conrado says, "and, yes, I said a prayer at the top, and my friend Joan is doing better."




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