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File photograph
Roses are often sold as bare-root plants and put into the ground in the winter.
Transplanting requires great care
By Tony Tomeo
Some plant species that include many cultivars or varieties are best chosen in bloom, since photographs and written descriptions usually do not adequately portray their performance. Because roses are best acquired bare-root, they should be planted in winter. It may be necessary to select from photographs in a catalog. Otherwise, they may be chosen from favorite plants in gardens of friends or public rose gardens like the Heritage Rose Garden and the San Jose Municipal Rose Garden.
Incidentally, the Heritage Rose Garden, located at Spring and Taylor streets in San Jose may be the most complete collection of rose cultivars in the world. Many of the varieties there cannot be found in most nurseries, but are grown by Tom Liggett who designed the garden and is the authority on roses. Liggett's Rose Nursery is at 1206 Curtiss Ave. in San Jose, but it is advisable to call for an appointment at 408.295.6014.
Most rose plants grown at this nursery are better suited to climate and soil conditions in the Santa Clara Valley and are of impeccable quality. Container-grown plants are well-rooted and easily planted from containers during growing seasons. Rose plants obtained from garden centers are almost exclusively planted from bare-root the previous winter and are not well-rooted until late in the summer. Consequently, they may require special attention their first year.
Crabapples and flowering cherries which may have also been acquired in bloom also are usually planted the previous winter. I always recommend 5-gallon trees because they get established much faster in the garden. However, 15-gallon trees are often all that is available. In either situation, it may be preferred to leave the trees in their containers until the roots are able to firmly hold themselves and their soil together, to minimize root damage during planting.
In 15-gallon cans, this may take a while, during which time the tree will require special irrigation to prevent desiccation. Because the black vinyl cans can become very warm if exposed to the sun, they should be shaded while the foliar canopy remains exposed. Not only does warm vinyl damage fine roots, but it provides an ideal environment for root rot fungus. Flowering cherries are easily damaged by sunburn and may require protection until the canopy is sufficient to shade the trunk.
Rhododendrons, azaleas and andromeda are also prone to rot in warm soil. Fortunately, they are usually well-rooted and should be planted immediately. Rhododendrons are surface rooting, so do not be alarmed if sturdy, well-rooted plants leave the lower third of their soil in the can when they are removed to be planted.
If poor drainage is a problem, rhododendrons and andromeda may be "mounded." This means that only the lower part of the root system is planted in amended soil below the surface of the existing soil. Rich, well-amended soil with good drainage is mounded around the plant up to the surface of the root system. A well may be formed around newly installed plants, but it is important to avoid adding soil around the base of the main stem. The height of the mound may be limited by the area in which the plant is to be grown. In large plantings, mounding may be done entirely above the surface. Eventually, the mound is concealed within the foliar canopy.
Flower of the Week: Cornflower
Cornflower, Centaurea cyanus, a.k.a. bachelor's button is one of the first flowers I remember from my childhood. The plants can get to two and a half feet tall and wide if given enough space. The gray green leaves are about three inches long and narrow. The ruffled flowers are about one inch wide. The are best planted from seed early in spring, but may be planted until late spring.
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Sunnyvale, California Since 1994
