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Photograph by Chad Pilster
Mike Ochi prepares sushi for the waiting customers at Sushi Maru in Sunnyvale.
Sushi Maru blends local culture with the Japanese
By Kevin Gemmell
For the past 14 years, Ken Miyamoto has been preparing both traditional Japanese food and Americanized sushi at three of his restaurants, including Sushi Maru in Sunnyvale. Miyamoto also manages Tomi Sushi in San Jose and Sushi Tomi in Mountain View.
Sushi Maru is Ken's personal experiment, where he combines American culture and Japanese cooking. Bringing the two together is what the 36 year-old Japanese native hopes will distinguish Sushi Maru from other sushi bars.
"It's like a different style," said Miyamoto. "American-Japanese style."
Even the layout and decor of the restaurant are a mix of cultures. When first entering, a customer might have difficulty distinguishing this sushi restaurant from any typical American eatery. A customer has the option of sitting in diner-style booths or taking a seat at the sushi bar. Stools at the bar are directly across from the preparers, so you can see the sushi being created right in front of you. At the bar, customers order their own sushi combinations. Miyamoto concedes that there have been some outrageous requests since Sushi Maru opened six months ago.
When asked what the most bizarre combination was, Miyamoto laughed. "Everything," he said. "I don't think it tastes very good when everything is together, but if that's what they want, that's what they get."
If you don't feel like creating your own sushi, Sushi Maru offers all the traditional Japanese rolls, such as kappa maki and tekka maki (six pieces for $1.50) as well as the American favorites, like the popular California roll (three for $1.50). Miyamoto is confident that the sushi bar will be very popular.
"Fifteen years ago, there was a boom. Americans began enjoying Japanese sushi," Miyamoto said. "I think the sushi bar is part of the second boom."
Sushi is not the only food served at Sushi Maru. The restaurant offers a wide variety of dishes, from basic chicken and beef teriyaki to extravagant a la carte fish (cooked or raw) priced between $2.50 and $9.50. Sushi Maru also offers American and Japanese appetizers, including fried chicken wings and deep-fried gyoza (similar to Chinese pot stickers). A Hamachi Kama Broiled Yellowtail fish ($6) and a deep fried soft shell crab ($5.75) are on the menu too.
The lunch special is $6 and includes a salad, entree (meat of your choice or sushi), and fruit. Dinner specials generally cost $9.75, depending on the order. The sashimi dinner dishes move closer to $12. For dessert, diners can also choose from green-tea ice cream ($2) or mochi ice cream in mango and red bean flavors ($1.50).
Sushi Maru, 308 Town and Country Village at the corner of Washington and Mathilda avenues, Sunnyvale. Open Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. for dinner. Weekend hours are Saturday 12 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. for dinner; Sunday the restaurant closes at 9 p.m. For information call 530-8464.
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Sunnyvale, California Since 1994
