The Willow Glen Resident Plant bare-root veggies, perennials in the winter By Tony Tomeo The weather certainly has not been conducive to gardening! Now that the early winter planting and pruning is done, even I don't spend much time in the garden. However, there are still a few concerns to tend to before spring. After your bare-root trees are planted, you may want to consider your choices of bare-root perennial vegetables and berries. Raspberries, blackberries and blueberries probably arrived in your nursery with bare-root trees and roses. Rhubarb, strawberries, artichokes and asparagus may have arrived somewhat later. Soil should be amended when planting any of these perennials, but fertilization can wait until later winter, just before growth starts. Asparagus prefers more organic matter than most plants, in holes about 10 inches wide by 10 inches deep. The tops of the plants should be more than six inches below the surface, spaced at 12 inches in rows four feet apart. The plants do best if initially covered with just two inches of soil rather than completely filling the hole. Then bury as the plants grow without covering the tips of the shoots, until the hole is filled. Rhubarb, strawberries and artichokes are planted with only the tip of the dormant shoot at soil level. Raspberries, blackberries and blueberries are planted with all stem growth above the surface. In all cases, roots should be spread as much as possible. Several summer bulbs and rhizomic perennials are also planted at this time of year, considerably later than spring bulbs. Gladiolus, lilies, ranunculus, anemones, callas, cannas and amaryllis will soon be available. Gladiolus, lilies and amaryllis may be planted in groups two or three weeks apart to prolong the bloom cycle. Do not plant dahlias yet. New growth will come up too fast and be damaged by frost. Don't worry if your dahlias stayed in the ground from last year. They are tougher once established and can afford some tip burn. Winter is not all about planting dormant plants under bare soil or planting and pruning bare trees and shrubs. Primroses, pansies, violas, dianthus, schizanthus, nemesia and Iceland poppies are all useful annual color for bedding. Of course, cool-season vegetables such as beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, chard, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, spinach, onions and collard greens may still be planted. Although spring vegetables grow too fast to start indoors now, any of these cool-season vegetables that are not grown for their roots may be started in a greenhouse now for planting in very early spring. Annual summer flowers are slower than vegetables and may be started in the greenhouse now for spring planting. Now that gardening is at its slowest, you have an opportunity to research problems you may have experienced in the past. Before making plans for this year's planting schedule, you should know the limits of your microclimates, soil, exposure and water. You should also determine what cultural practices may have been detrimental to the health of trees, shrubs and lawns in your landscape before continuing with them in the spring. The Sunset Western Garden Book is a publication I have found to be most helpful. There are countless other books available to help with your gardening needs. Some problems, however, require help from the experts. Horticultural consultants are not reserved for professional landscape designers, arborists or gardeners. Garden enthusiasts may also use their services. In my business, I commonly report on landscapes at private residences. In most cases, the enthusiasm of the home gardener is more rewarding for me than composing reports on landscapes at commercial or industrial sites for clients I may never meet. Horticultural reports consist of observations and recommendations, and in some cases, referrals to contractors who perform the recommended procedures. Perennial of the Week: Winter-Blooming Bergenia During the summer, this perennial is an attractive foliage plant which may be planted in a row in front of lighter foliated flowering ornamentals growing in light shade, such as fuchsias. Winter-blooming bergenia, Bergenia crassifolia, is a tough, evergreen, low-growing plant. The leaves are about eight inches across, dark green and coarse with a lightly serrated edge. The rhizomic stems are thick and easily divided, and like bearded iris, perform much better if not permitted to crowd themselves. The plants enjoy organic soil and regular irrigation, but are very tolerant of clay soil and a periodically dry root zone. In our area, they do best in part shade. Because they typically grow as understory plants where the soil remains damp and they hold onto some of their older foliage, snails and slugs may be a problem. This time of year, winter-blooming bergenia produces clusters of flowers suspended on stalks several inches above the foliage. Flowers are usually rose-pink, but may be light pink or even purple. This is a classic perennial that was particularly popular at the end of the Victorian period and again in the 1950s. You should have no problem finding them in your favorite nurseries. Call Tony Tomeo at 358-2574. [ Back to Contents Page | Willow Glen Resident Home Page | Archives ] This article appeared in the Willow Glen Resident, February 3, 1999. ©1999 Metro Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.