Photograph by Skye Dunlap
Salad Days: Carmine Camporaso, the new owner of Fratello's, grew up in the family restaurant on the Amalfi coast of Italy.
The Duke of Amalfi
Carmine Camporaso learned the art of cooking from his mother, an Italian chef
By Michele Leung
When Carmine Camporaso says ciao, he's not striving to be a hip-sounding yuppie. The recently transplanted Italian can make the most mundane word sound mellifluous in his mother tongue. But even more mellifluous are the cooking skills he inherited from his mother.
Camporaso is the new owner of Fratello's, on Hamilton and Meridian avenues. Though he is new to this restaurant, he is no stranger to working with food. His mother, now retired, was a chef in the family restaurant in Italy, and his five siblings also grew up in the kitchen. "I've been making cappuccino since I was 10 years old," he says.
Aside from a brief stint with cooking classes in his hometown, south of Naples on the Amalfi Coast, everything Camporaso knows he learned by observing his mother. His father--well, he was around, too. "My dad just ate. He married my mom because she was a great cook."
Camporaso discusses some of his comfort food from the Old World. He prepares his bruschetta with bread, anchovies and cheese. For extra flavor, "I put shrimp with lemon and arugula. It's wonderful. Pinch of salt and pepper and a glass of champagne. That's it," he says, kissing his fingertips.
His favorite dish is nothing more than a plate of aglio e olio, spaghetti, garlic and olive oil. "Disappointed, huh?"
One rule that Camporaso adheres to is that freshness counts above all else in his kitchen. No Ragu with Extra Mushrooms in this pantry. Making several trips to the grocery store in one week is a necessity, not an option.
"I would rather go four times to the seafood shop than just one time," he declares. "I don't care if I have to write a thousand checks. The secret in the food is freshness."
Fratello's specializes in seafood pasta, dishes that reflect the taste of the region where Camporaso grew up. His challenge in taking over an existing restaurant has been making sure his customers aren't disrupted by the change in ownership. "They want to see the same menu and some items even better than before. That's why they come," he says.
While he believes his clients have been satisfied with him, he's not quite convinced they're enjoying their food enough. He says one of the big differences he's seen is that Americans seem to be always on the go, more so than their Italian counterparts. "I wish people can really understand the culture of the table and food. It's sitting and enjoying the food for hours, chatting and drinking wine," he says. "This life is too rushed."
Camporaso makes a plea for his customers to slow down more, but, ironically, he is the most relaxed when his restaurant is full and busy. "This is my dimension. It's the way I found myself when I was little," he says.
The Neapolitan has two helpers in the kitchen, but he will soon be joined by his two brothers, Angelo and Julio, making them second-generation restaurateurs. In addition, the trio is eagerly awaiting the arrival of their mother, the chief chef among them, who will be vacationing in California soon. "She wants to see what I do and be proud of her son," says Camporaso.
Camporaso can't fathom being in any other profession, and it's safe to say he's found his niche. "I can't even think to do something else. I love too much food," he says.
Fratello's is at 1712-F Meridian Ave. For more information, call the restaurant at 408.269.3801.
Willow Glen, California Since 1992
