Photograph by Skye Dunlap
Two For The Road: Vince Battaglia and Pasquale Piazza bring Sicilian food, wine and culture to their expanding restaurant.
Fratello's proves old-world tradition can open new realms of possibility
Two guys who started 'with nothing' enjoy a near-cult following
By Mary Spicuzza
When Vince Battaglia and Pasquale Piazza, co-owners of Fratello's Italian restaurant, decided to close shop on a Saturday night to treat their staff to an evening of music from the homeland, friends warned them they were making a huge mistake.
"They told us that we'd lose our customers by closing on the most popular night of the week," Piazza says. "Instead our regulars called and said, 'Will you let us know next time? We'll go with you!'"
Battaglia and Piazza have made some unorthodox decisions over the past three years, but none of their customers are complaining. Instead the owners and their "crew" are now savoring the rewards of their unique business sense.
When I meet the two brothers-in-law on an early weekday morning, they're already gearing up for their daily lunch rush. A fresh red rose decorates each immaculate pink-draped tabletop. Meanwhile "the crew" is already busily at work in the kitchen.
Due to the continued popularity of Fratello's, which celebrates its third anniversary this fall, Piazza and Battaglia have expanded their operation. The spacious dining area, now twice its original size, is decorated with Italian paintings and prints, terra cotta statues of angelic cherubs, and bouquets of dried roses hanging over the arching doorways.
"I love roses," Piazza confesses.
While business is now booming at the Meridian Avenue spot, Piazza explains that the restaurant has had to overcome some serious obstacles en route to becoming a neighborhood institution. He says that shortly after Fratello's opened, chain restaurants with big bucks backing them sprang up all over the area.
"But, to be a real southern Italian restaurant you have to cook it or speak it," Piazza says proudly. "We do both. And while a lot of [chains] have shut down, we're open."
Not only have they stayed open, but they've grown. And have built a fan base boasting a comfortable combination of long-time residents, local politicos, community leaders, and family fans of all ages.
"We're blessed with a great community. Willow Glen is best for newcomers. Especially for two guys like us, who started without anything in our pockets," Piazza says.
Pastas, homemade pizzas and seafood dominate the menu, which emphasizes staying true to the family's Sicilian roots.
"We don't want to have a place where it takes an hour to read the menu," Piazza says. "Our menu reflects the culture of Sicily, with hints of northern Italian influence. We serve down-to-earth food."
When the guys say down-to-earth, they mean homemade soups, comfort foods like eggplant parmigiana and polenta, and pizza toppings ranging from anchovies to artichokes. Not to mention traditional Italian sausage and homemade sauces, each dish made to order.
Traditionally, the Sicilian reverence for food is only matched by a devotion to good wine. And in this regard, too, the owners are traditional, old-fashioned types.
"We don't believe in cheap wine," Piazza says. "We've got Italians coming in here! You serve them that, they throw it in your face!"
Never ones to anger a fellow Sicilian, the brothers report attending at least 30 wine-inspired events each year. And stocking up with only the best they can find.
Ever devoted to good food, the owners also spend their days off visiting friends in the restaurant business. "Just like the traditional old fogies in Italy," they laugh.
The hardworking team is now busily preparing to cater the Festa Italiana Lodi, on Saturday, June 12. Held on the Lodi Grape Festival Grounds, the event will feature 11 entertainers, including the popular Pupo and 8 Curve Pericolose, known as the "Italian Spice Girls."
"I'm making 3,000 cannolis," Piazza smiles, speaking of the addictive Italian pastries made of flaky shells stuffed with a sweetened ricotta filling.
Other restaurants have come and gone, but the men of Fratello's have found a lasting formula in good food and wine, a comfortable family atmosphere, all the while treating customers and staff the way they'd want to be treated. And always having more than enough food to share with customers.
"In all three years, we've never run out of bread. Ever," Piazza adds. Smiling shyly, he adds, "I'm sorry I've talked so much. We've just got nothing to hide here."
Fratello's, 1712-F Meridian Ave., is open for lunch Tuesday-Friday from 11:30am to 2:00pm; dinner Tuesday-Thursday from 5pm to 9pm; and dinner Friday and Saturday from 5pm to 10pm. For more information, call 269-3801.
Willow Glen, California Since 1992
