Under the culinary direction of 49-year-old Dorian Bustos, also known as "Doña Dorian," and the ownership of Mexican nationals Maria Maciel and Francisco Carrillo, Rinconcito Colombiano celebrated its two-year anniversary this past June 28. It is said to be the only Colombian eatery in the Bay Area.

"The Spanish word 'rinconcito' conjures up nice images for Colombians and South American people. It's a very nice word," Bustos says, explaining the name amid the hustle and bustle of the lunch hour. The restaurant is regularly frequented by dozens of Colombian natives and fans of South American cuisine. "We really try to make this place a little piece of Colombia."

Sitting at neatly arranged, rectangular tables decorated with white tablecloths, cloth napkins, elegant silverware and water goblets, most customers are ordering the house specialty—"bandeja paisa," or "paisa platter," which includes rice, beans, ground beef, fried egg, pork skin, corn cake and fried ripe plantains.

A native of Cali, Colombia, Bustos includes in the menu most popular Colombian dishes, like "sobrebarriga a la criolla," a top flank steak grilled or in a sauce; "lengua en salsa," tongue in sauce, served with rice, corn cake, cassava and potato; "chuleta de cerdo," breaded or grilled pork loin served with rice, beans, fried plantains and corn cake; and different types of typical Colombian breakfast dishes, appetizers, side orders and desserts.

"Our food will satisfy the palates of most Colombians and South Americans. It doesn't matter where they come from," Bustos says.

Bustos is a chef with various culinary certifications. She studied at the "El Sena" culinary school in Colombia and at the Universidad del Valle, where she majored in "tecnologia en alimentos" (food technology). She's been cooking for more than 30 years, having begun her career as a cooking contractor preparing food for industrial cafeterias.

The ambience invites customers to enjoy all that is Colombian, including its music—the restaurant plays vallenatos, cumbia, tropical and boleros music or more "viejos" but classic sounds, such as arrangements by Los Panchos and Los Tolimenses.

"Doña Dorian's" secret to delicious dishes, say some customers, lies in her seasonings. Asked to divulge what makes her customers return, she says it's a blend of onions and tomatoes with garlic and herbs like laurel, tomillo, oregano, cilantro and parsley.

Rinconcito Colombiano also caters to social, family and business events. Prices are arranged on an individual basis, says Bustos.

Bustos, who emigrated from Colombia to San Jose in May of 1999, says she's happy to work at the restaurant and help support her family—husband Marco San Clemente, and children Sandra, Nubia and Gabriel, and grandchildren Sebastian and Kevin.

The restaurant also features a small store that carries typical Colombian items such as vocadillo Veleno, a sweet appetizer, and arequipe cafe, a sweet cheesecake-type dessert, as well as "chocolates Sol," and wafer-thin Obleas cookies.

To quench the thirst, customers can order American favorites or Colombian beverages like malta Leone; avena, a thick drink made from oats; Colombiana soda; and manzana, a kind of apple juice. Blackberry juice, as well as more exotic tropical fruit juices such as guanabana, lulo and maracuya, are also available.

Rinconcito Colombiano, located at the Willow Glen Plaza shopping center, 2306 Almaden Rd., is open Tuesday­Wednesday, 9 a.m.­9 p.m., and Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m.­9:30 p.m. For more information, call 408.265.8894.