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By Cara Finn
Chardonnay has been the queen of white wines in California for the past decade. It is available everywhere and in a myriad of styles and prices. When one orders a glass of "white" wine, chardonnay is the default, but is chardonnay the only white wine worth exploring? Absolutely not.
As the weather warms and we spend more time outside with family and friends, white wines come into fashion. This spring, consider the ABCs of white wine: "anything but chardonnay."
Viognier, chenin blanc and pinot gris are wonderful alternatives, and these food-friendly white wines are perfect to match with the springtime bounty and outdoor lifestyle that we enjoy in the Bay Area.
Viognier (pronounced "vee-Oh-nay") is a delicious and intriguing grape that originated in France. The wine has a haunting floral perfume that is unmistakable; in the glass it tends to be a beautiful golden color. Flavors of apricot, peaches, blossoms, overripe pears and other fruit tease the palate.
Viognier tends to be viscous, coating the entire mouth, and it has a long, lingering finish that makes it a great companion for slightly spicy foods or Asian-influenced dishes. Consider small plates of shredded pork in lettuce cups, stir-fry with a touch of spice, or a cheese plate with medium strong cheeses like mountain Gorgonzola blue, English cheddar or aged provolone.
Sometimes the hardest part about finding viognier is remembering how to pronounce the name. If you get stuck, simply ask for the white wine that begins with a "V"; any good wine store employee will lead you straight to the viognier rack.
If crab cakes are on the evening menu consider a dry chenin blanc. Chenin's red apple, honeysuckle and melon flavors make this a great choice for seafood, outdoor meals and picnics. Put it together with a light dinner of prosciutto and melon, nuts, mild cheeses and crusty bread and chenin will blend with the flavors without dominating them with oakiness or overtly fruity flavors.
Many producers in California make delightful chenin blanc, but often it's in a sweet or "off dry" style. This sugary style of chenin will work nicely for spicy, peppery foods (like medium to hot curry) but may be overwhelming with a simple cheese plate. If you want a wine that is not sweet, look for the word "dry" on the label. In winespeak, "dry" means "not sweet" and "off dry" means slightly sweet.
Another wonderful white wine to enjoy is pinot gris. This wine, also known as "pinot grigio" in Italian, is a great budget alternative to the more expensive chardonnay and matches most of the same foods that we commonly think of for chardonnay. Chicken, pasta dishes, fish and cream sauces pair nicely with the bright fruit flavors of apple and pear that we find in pinot grigio.
Under its French-named counterpart of pinot gris, we find great examples of this delightful wine from Oregon, California and the Alsace region of France. Oregon and California pinot gris tends to be full-bodied and brimming with peach and pear flavors, with a slight spiciness on the finish. From Alsace, pinot gris is even more concentrated and complex—a delicious alternative to explore.
In addition to the classic "white wine" dishes, pinot gris or grigio is a great wine to have with vegetarian meals. All sorts of grilled veggies, from bok choy to roasted garlic, work nicely alongside pinot gris. Throw nature's freshest on the grill, drizzle them with a little balsamic vinegar and lemon, open the pinot gris and you are set for a delightful and fresh warm-weather meal.
Viognier, chenin blanc and pinot gris are enjoyed best when chilled but not freezing cold. Most well-made white wines will taste better at slightly warmer than refrigerator temperatures, and more flavors are perceived when wines are not too cold. In many cultures both white wines and red wines are served at common cellar temperatures—around 55 to 60 degrees. Experiment for yourself and find your favorite sipping temperature.
These wines may not be as easy to find as the common chardonnay, and one might have to ask the local wine merchant to point them out, but the selection should be reasonable and it's definitely worth the effort.
Cara Finn is the owner of The Grapevine, a fine wine and cheese store and tasting bar. She can be reached at 408.829.8339 or at info@grapevine-wg.com.
Shopping guide to white wines
Viognier
Andrew Murray (Santa Barbara), $28
Guigal Condrieu (France), $36
Stephan Ridge (Central Coast), $20
Vinum Cellars (San Benito), $20
Pinot grigio or pinot gris
Teresa Raiz (Italy), $15
Kris (Italy), $13
Cristom (Oregon), $15
J Wine Co. (Russian River), $18
Chenin blanc
Chappellet (Napa), $15
Dry Creek Vineyards
(Clarksburg), $12
Coyote Canyon (Santa Lucia
Highlands), $23
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